Turbo Timer Question
Turbo Timer Question
I am thinking of making my own turbo timer. I have a 2K Smoker and I would like to know what 2 wires the ignition switch closes and where they are at. This doesn't seem like rocket science to me, but maybe I am wrong. I am an electrician by trade and I dabble in electronics. Any help would be appreciated!!!
Bob...
Bob...
Originally posted by brassbuldog
Hmmm....so no one going to reveal the connection points for the ignition wires??? awe.....come onnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!
Hmmm....so no one going to reveal the connection points for the ignition wires??? awe.....come onnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!
I at one time had Isspro's turbo temp monitor hooked up to my truck. Thought it was a great idea. I would be able to turn off the hot truck and walk away while the monitor waited for the optimal *300 shut off temp. Well I also couldn't find the "magic wire" to tap into. After many attempts by to retreave info from anyone and everyone, the only wire I could come up with was the large blue wire located in the steering wheel harness. Now this happened to only apply to MY year. Everyother year may have had another color, so help from other guys was not much good. Even the company who built it couldn't tell me the right wire. After hooking everything up I soon realized that the trucks electronics were not going to let me do this with out problems. When shut down the truck would light up dash lights and chime alarms. And to add insult to injury the alarm wouldn't enable itself unless I waited for the truck to shut itself off then lock it again. The whole ordeal was a huge waist of time, so I returned it. Now I'm not saying the "Timer" isnt good since I have read of others that love it but I do think it hooks up the same as the Turbo temp monitor which means that it might give me the same results. Thats all the information I have.
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Well here is a quote from hellotbone.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rbo+timer+wire
Constant 12V+ Pink/Black or Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow or Blue/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness, Must Add Relay for Remote Start
Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
Starter Yellow or Blue/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness, Must Add Relay for Remote Start
Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
I believe the wire you're looking for is the "engine run" wire in fuse box/junction block. With the switch in the run and start positions, this wire sends power to the fuel pump relay, PCM and ECM. So, if you tap off of a constant 12V source and route it over to the that circuit, you will bypass the ignition switch and the engine will continue to run after the key has been turned off.
On my truck (2001) the wire on the 'hot' side of the fuse is located at connector C9 pin #2 and is dark blue. The wire leaving fuse 9 is located at connector C1 pin #10 and is light green/black.
Keep in mind that when you supply power to C9 #2, you are supplying power to fuse 9 as well as fuses 11, 17, 19. The only way I see that you could power the fuse 9 circuit and not the others would be to splice a diode into the light green/black wire to prevent backfeeding through that fuse and bringing your timed power wire into that circuit 'downstream' of the diode. When running off of the timed power, the 12V source would be bypassing the fuse (F9) for this circuit, so it would be a good idea to use an inline fuse of the same rating as F9 in the timed power source wire.
Note: I have not done any of this yet myself so I do not know for certain that this would work. Perform that the mods at your own risk.
On my truck (2001) the wire on the 'hot' side of the fuse is located at connector C9 pin #2 and is dark blue. The wire leaving fuse 9 is located at connector C1 pin #10 and is light green/black.
Keep in mind that when you supply power to C9 #2, you are supplying power to fuse 9 as well as fuses 11, 17, 19. The only way I see that you could power the fuse 9 circuit and not the others would be to splice a diode into the light green/black wire to prevent backfeeding through that fuse and bringing your timed power wire into that circuit 'downstream' of the diode. When running off of the timed power, the 12V source would be bypassing the fuse (F9) for this circuit, so it would be a good idea to use an inline fuse of the same rating as F9 in the timed power source wire.
Note: I have not done any of this yet myself so I do not know for certain that this would work. Perform that the mods at your own risk.
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