Well here is how i found how to do it yourself but this says you can gain 3 sec in 1/4 mile times??? how could that be?

LINK

 

Well the stock converters fluid coupling is.... well.... horrible. When you lock the converter up youre getting all the power to the ground. I dont know if it will make hardly a 3 second difference, but it will be faster for sure.

 

Look in my gallery for other ways to do this.

 

Locked shifts don't get along with stock input shafts. Just pulled out a DTT trans. and replaced the input shaft with a billet one - the input shaft stripped the splines out of the hub. This was on a 12v with mild power upgrades and a DTT smartlock controller, and about 40,000 miles on the trans. Yes, he pulls a 5th wheel, but the day it happened the truck was empty.

 

I have a switch that is ON or OFF. Also have an indicator light when the TC is locked up.

When the switch in the OFF position, the TC acts normal, it locks up well into 3rd gear like it should normally (the indicator light also comes on). When I let my foot off the pedal, the TC indicator light goes out (like it should).

When it's in the ON position, the TC is locked up. Going down a grade I can flip it on and feel the trans hold the truck back like a manual trans when you let the foot off the pedal.

Under normal driving, I keep the switch OFF. If you turn it ON and forget, when you apply the brake, it disengages, so you can come to a stop. If you let your foot off the brake with the switch still ON, it will stall (just like dumping the clutch on a manual trans).

If I'm out 4-wheeling, I may put it in 2nd gear and flip the switch ON when going down grades (1st gear if the grade is steeper). This keeps me from having to use the brakes a lot because it acts like a manual trans. Before the switch, there were times I could smell the brakes getting hot.

For normal street driving - not worth it. If you tow a lot (in Nebraska) - not worth it.

If you tow over a lot of grades - do it. If you do off road 4-wheelin' - do it.

 

I thought that it was different for a 24 valve with the computer. With my homemade switch, I can only lockup in 3 & 4 gear, not 1 & 2. I was thinking it may have been different for a new truck...

 

No,
It's all in the way the valve body was built, or upgraded.

 

Ive had an ATS Co-Pilot with the ATS valve body in my '01 with the ATS 3 Star TC for 3 years now (otherwise stock tranny), towing a 12K trailer. But the truck is also a daily driver. Lock and unlock is automatic, but I can control when it locks up (at what MPH) on the fly. Very nice setup, and I don't have to remember to unlock... EVER.. it does that at a minimum of 8MPH. I can set it to lock up at 8, 18, 30, 40 or 50 mph.. This unit is also set up for an exhaust brake if one is needed, but I found just by having the TC lockup I don't need an Exhaust brake. but as stated above, don't do any lock to lock shifting, except from OD to high (at least with my unit, I can do that without worrying about damage)

 

so is it safe to floor it from a stop and when it hits second hit the lok up and run through all the gears or should i wait till 3rd? i have billet input 3 disk converter and heavy duty clutchs and a bd race valve body

 

so if you use a 2 position switch it will either lockup in 3rd+4th when its on or not lockup at all with it off? it sounds like i want a 3 position switch to keep my factory setting. how do you wire a 3 position switch?

 

option one is when a voltage (signal) is applied all the time so the TC will not lock up at all, option 2 is when the stock signal is grounded and the TC is locked up, auto is when neither happens and the stock system takes over as usual.