Is there a "good" way to run a fuel pressure gauge?
Originally Posted by phox_mulder
That's ok, but how do you monitor it at WOT under load?
phox
phox
I think he's trying to show that one gauge is pre-filter and maxxed out. The other one is post-filter and reads a little lower. Just a guess.
Well, it still leaks on the fuel side of the isolator. Everything is tight but it appears to be leaking from the large screw used to bleed the fuel side of the system. I'm sick of dealing with it so the isolator is hitting the trash can once I source a new fuel hose and needle valve.
So if the VP44 isn't creating the fuel pressure pulses won't moving the fuel pressure pickup point closer to the LP (i.e., canister) make the pressure spikes seen by the gauge worse?
So if the VP44 isn't creating the fuel pressure pulses won't moving the fuel pressure pickup point closer to the LP (i.e., canister) make the pressure spikes seen by the gauge worse?
If its the 44 why is that when I removed the lp and installed the FASS with all that rubber line that my gauge issues stopped! That gauge is as solid as a rock since the FASS install. I am even running a larger line inside the cab to the gauge which would mean a larger volume of fuel pulsations.
The truck is running -6 from the FASS forward to stock fuel filter and then -8 Aeroquip lines to the 44. Fuel pressure is pulled off of a block on the 44 inlet.
Rick
The truck is running -6 from the FASS forward to stock fuel filter and then -8 Aeroquip lines to the 44. Fuel pressure is pulled off of a block on the 44 inlet.
Rick
Originally Posted by rharveysr
If its the 44 why is that when I removed the lp and installed the FASS with all that rubber line that my gauge issues stopped! That gauge is as solid as a rock since the FASS install. I am even running a larger line inside the cab to the gauge which would mean a larger volume of fuel pulsations.
The truck is running -6 from the FASS forward to stock fuel filter and then -8 Aeroquip lines to the 44. Fuel pressure is pulled off of a block on the 44 inlet.
Rick
The truck is running -6 from the FASS forward to stock fuel filter and then -8 Aeroquip lines to the 44. Fuel pressure is pulled off of a block on the 44 inlet.
Rick
So it the long and short of it is that one has to either:
1. Live with the isolator if they can get the air out, get it to work, and not leak.
2. Replace the entire fuel system so the gauge won't rattle. Didn't I buy the gauge to keep an eye on the stock fuel system to begin with?
3. Run fuel straight to the gauge and consider the fuel pressure gauge as a "routine maintenance item" just like the lift pump.
I guess the answer to my original question is NO, there is not a "good" way to run a fuel pressure gauge on a STOCK fuel system.
1. Live with the isolator if they can get the air out, get it to work, and not leak.
2. Replace the entire fuel system so the gauge won't rattle. Didn't I buy the gauge to keep an eye on the stock fuel system to begin with?
3. Run fuel straight to the gauge and consider the fuel pressure gauge as a "routine maintenance item" just like the lift pump.
I guess the answer to my original question is NO, there is not a "good" way to run a fuel pressure gauge on a STOCK fuel system.
Originally Posted by Wes in TN
So it the long and short of it is that one has to either:
1. Live with the isolator if they can get the air out, get it to work, and not leak.
2. Replace the entire fuel system so the gauge won't rattle. Didn't I buy the gauge to keep an eye on the stock fuel system to begin with?
3. Run fuel straight to the gauge and consider the fuel pressure gauge as a "routine maintenance item" just like the lift pump.
I guess the answer to my original question is NO, there is not a "good" way to run a fuel pressure gauge on a STOCK fuel system.
1. Live with the isolator if they can get the air out, get it to work, and not leak.
2. Replace the entire fuel system so the gauge won't rattle. Didn't I buy the gauge to keep an eye on the stock fuel system to begin with?
3. Run fuel straight to the gauge and consider the fuel pressure gauge as a "routine maintenance item" just like the lift pump.
I guess the answer to my original question is NO, there is not a "good" way to run a fuel pressure gauge on a STOCK fuel system.
Originally Posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
It's really not complicated or involved. Run a line from a point past the filter to the gage, put a restriction like a needle valve in the line. Hook it up and like thousands of other systems, it works fine and is trouble free. Until electronics came into it, all big trucks and equipment did it just this way, with fuel pressure oil pressure even water pressure on some. It's no big deal.
I'm going to try moving the fuel pressure pick-up point to the bottom of the fuel filter canister and I'm also going to order a quality needle valve. Hopefully that will keep the next fuel pressure gauge alive longer.
Originally Posted by Wes in TN
I had it setup originaly with a rubber line from the VP44 to a hardware store needle valve (barely open) and plastic tubing from the needle valve to the guage. Even with the rubber line and needle vavle I am on my sencond gauge in 15,000 miles and this one is rattling.
I'm going to try moving the fuel pressure pick-up point to the bottom of the fuel filter canister and I'm also going to order a quality needle valve. Hopefully that will keep the next fuel pressure gauge alive longer.
I'm going to try moving the fuel pressure pick-up point to the bottom of the fuel filter canister and I'm also going to order a quality needle valve. Hopefully that will keep the next fuel pressure gauge alive longer.
The best needle valve is the NAPA deal, I don't have the number, but it is on one of the threads about the gages.
possibly try a pressure snubber through McMaster or the like instead of a needle valve. used one for my boost gauge and it worked great...never did try the fuel gauge (since i didnt need to) but i'd bet it would work. clean install as well. just throwing out another idea that i didnt see mentioned...
Originally Posted by pgilles
possibly try a pressure snubber through McMaster or the like instead of a needle valve. used one for my boost gauge and it worked great...never did try the fuel gauge (since i didnt need to) but i'd bet it would work. clean install as well. just throwing out another idea that i didnt see mentioned...



