I am having a Goerend Bros. tranmission put in fairly soon..

Question I have is, with the Sled Puller 66 turbo and 4.10 gears, should I run a 10 blade stator which stalls lower, or put in a TC that is a little looser (modified stator).

I will be using the truck for daily driving, truck pulling, & occasional drag racing.

Lets hear some opinions, thanks.

 

Its really hard to say. Im not sure how that SP66 will spool, but my converter is really tight, and almost a little laggy for daily driving with the 16cm housing(and no more fuel than I have). Once it spools though; It goes; no questions asked. I would probably personally go for the tighter converter. It will take it longer to spool, but when it does spool; you wont be loosing much of anything at all through the fluid coupling which is what you want pulling, and drag racing. The Looser converters can be ok as long as you can lock it up in competition, but you dont want a loose converter in a sled pulling competition. You will loose power to the ground, and that isnt what helps you win. Its not so bad for drag racing because the converter can be locked then without as much problem/risk, and you will spool quicker at the line, and the looser converter will be the best for daily driving, but If it were me; the tight one would be my choice. A buddy had a ***(dont want to get any wars started) brand of TC,a nd while the TC is awesome when you lock it; he pulled it in 4 hi, and never spun a tire. Just got to the end of the track still turning 2000 rpm or so not moving the sled,a nd not spinning at all. I drove the truck on the street, and it is a good stout running truck, but his TC just wasnt putting the power down to do any good pulling. Hope this helps a little. This is a really debateable subject, and you are the one that will have to make the decision, but this is how I feel. Good luck!

Eric

 

I would go with a higher stall to help light the turbo, but have a t/c lockup switch for when you are pulling. From what haisleys have told me about sledpulling an auto is that after you get to 3rd gear then lock up then unlock just as you are about ready to spin out.

 

Thanks for the input.. anyone else?

 

Another thing I forgot is that you have 4:10's which will really help with lighting the turbo; so I still say the tighter converter is your best bet. Let us know what you go with!

Eric

 

Full agreement.
I have been around quite a few converters from race cars, and there is quite a difference between converters, in relation to stall speed. You can have two identical converters that will stall at the same rpm, on the same car, but run very different on the strip.
It is about getting a converter that is matched/built for THAT engine/ truck COMBO.
One size does not fit all.
Have Dave built one for you.

 

i went with a looser converter, as in 2200 stall. i didn't want to sit there and boil the tranny trying to build some boost for 30 seconds like i have seen many tight tq converter trucks do. i put in a lock up switch and all is good.

 

somewhat off-topic- can someone tell me how the switch set-up can "lock" the TC...i have some friends looking at dodges and they may get autos so i need to know what and how to modify for them!

 

look up mystery switch, all it does is ground a wire from the pcm. when grounded the converter is locked up solid. but only in 2,3 and od. mike

 

i understand thats what it does...but physcially how can it lock up...i mean is it some kind of mechanical device in the TC, or is it done with the fluid somehow?

 

Here is the link to the lockup switch instructions...

http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf

Not exactly sure how the converter locks up; but I think it is pretty much fluid controlled since how good a converter holds is based on the PSI the valve body is putting out. They lock up in overdrive anyway; all you are doing is grounding the wire on the PCM to make it lockup any time. Make sure and notice the instructions are different for certain year trucks.

Eric

 

All I know is that it's hydraulically activated. I'm like you though. How does it physcially lock up. I understand that there's a clutch on the inside but what activates the clutch.

 

hydralic preessure works on the clutch much like springs on a pressure plate does with a clutch on a flywheel.

 

When 12 volts are placed across the circuit, it causes a switch valve to move, and this changes the fluid flow from unlock to lock. Hydraulic fluid is used to un-lock it just like locking it.
Also, for those who don't know, the converters on most vehicles have a clutch built inside. This clutch-when engaged- increases the efficiency of the trans. Much like a manual trans is.

 

I understand that. What I want to know is where is the fluid traveling from? Is there a hole in the input shaft that forces the fluid in the TC to lock and unlock it or what? How does the fluid in the trans get into the TC to lock it up?