Still tuning my new parts
#1
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Still tuning my new parts
Hi guys,
Well I finally got back to work on my motor. I was anxious to try out all of the advice you have provided me so far. This weekend I set my timing to 15.5°. Wow, what a difference that made the truck runs much smoother now and EGT's seem on average 100° lower. I found out that my timing was still set at the factory spec. I payed a shop near State College, PA $200 two years ago to advance my timing. Needless to say I was not a happy camper about that deal (actually when I left the shop I wasn't happy either, seemed like the same truck to me).
Anyways, back to the weekend. I pulled out the #6 and put in the #10 plate. The #6 was set at full forward with no marks to show a factory setting so I simply put the #10 in full forward as well. When I put the AFC housing back on, I moved it full forward and slacked the star wheel until it almost disappeared towards the front of the opening. The truck seems to run great (possibly a slight loss in power but barely noticeable). It smokes slightly more pre-boost but only if you really get into it.
I guess I am looking for some advice on optimizing this combination. Since my plate, AFC housing, and star wheel are all full forward, I am wondering if I would get the same power and lower EGT's if I moved them back at all. I really don't have much to compare this too since I have never tuned a diesel before so what should I do and what results should I look for? Also, is there anything else that I am overlooking (besides my stock automatic that is begging for mercy)? How hot should my EGT's be with this combo? I average 800° to 1000° with normal highway driving. Last week I had a short drag race with a 460 gasser (smoked him by the way) and my EGT's climbed to 1400° almost instantly (I backed out of the throttle or I am sure they would have kept climbing).
Future plans include a 6-speed (or possibly just a built auto) and an upgrade for the turbo (I am still running the stock WHC-1). I know I have posed a lot of questions here but any advice from you more experienced members is greatly appreciated.
Well I finally got back to work on my motor. I was anxious to try out all of the advice you have provided me so far. This weekend I set my timing to 15.5°. Wow, what a difference that made the truck runs much smoother now and EGT's seem on average 100° lower. I found out that my timing was still set at the factory spec. I payed a shop near State College, PA $200 two years ago to advance my timing. Needless to say I was not a happy camper about that deal (actually when I left the shop I wasn't happy either, seemed like the same truck to me).
Anyways, back to the weekend. I pulled out the #6 and put in the #10 plate. The #6 was set at full forward with no marks to show a factory setting so I simply put the #10 in full forward as well. When I put the AFC housing back on, I moved it full forward and slacked the star wheel until it almost disappeared towards the front of the opening. The truck seems to run great (possibly a slight loss in power but barely noticeable). It smokes slightly more pre-boost but only if you really get into it.
I guess I am looking for some advice on optimizing this combination. Since my plate, AFC housing, and star wheel are all full forward, I am wondering if I would get the same power and lower EGT's if I moved them back at all. I really don't have much to compare this too since I have never tuned a diesel before so what should I do and what results should I look for? Also, is there anything else that I am overlooking (besides my stock automatic that is begging for mercy)? How hot should my EGT's be with this combo? I average 800° to 1000° with normal highway driving. Last week I had a short drag race with a 460 gasser (smoked him by the way) and my EGT's climbed to 1400° almost instantly (I backed out of the throttle or I am sure they would have kept climbing).
Future plans include a 6-speed (or possibly just a built auto) and an upgrade for the turbo (I am still running the stock WHC-1). I know I have posed a lot of questions here but any advice from you more experienced members is greatly appreciated.
#5
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I'm running 17*, and I like it, but I lost a lot of low end. I think the 3K GSK had a lot to do with that as well, but I haven't had time to tune on it yet (It's harvest here in Ohio, and we sell farm machinery )
She runs great, and just hazes at WOT. EGT's are starting to get out of hand, so a turbo upgrade is next, If my clutch last's that long
Chris
She runs great, and just hazes at WOT. EGT's are starting to get out of hand, so a turbo upgrade is next, If my clutch last's that long
Chris
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I think that I have read that about .03-.05 from full forward is the most powerful position of the torque plate. You may also look into the governer arm adjustment while you are in their just to be sure. Info. on the adjustment can be found here with a search or on piers web site. just mt .002 good luck
ps that tranny has got to be getting you should look into an upgrade before it goes, I think it would save you some $ in the long run..
ps that tranny has got to be getting you should look into an upgrade before it goes, I think it would save you some $ in the long run..
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I think it is too late to sink money into this tranny. The TC already slips like no tomorrow. I am afraid to put a TC in this tranny because I think that if the tranny goes then there is a good possibility that it would take the new TC with it. Is this the right thinking or am I wrong on that too? Thanks for the input on the pump stuff. I will mess with it this weekend if I get the chance.
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#8
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I think that any time before your tranny granades would be less expensive than after, and besides if your luck is like mine it will blow at the worst possible time, like 100 miles from home while its cold and you are broke... Just my .002
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