Has anyone noticed any difference in how quickly the engine starts after installing the FASS? Mine seems to take a couple of turns of the engine before actually starting. I just got the FASS on Thursday night. Before, it started if you did anything more than the slightest "bump". I don't know if the two are related or not, the FASS is just the last thing I did to it (the only thing since getting the new block installed).

Thanks,
Chris

 

Mine starts pretty much the same as before. If you click the starter and run the pump, starting is abit more difficult. My Fass pump runs at 18psi and fights my injection pump regulator that set at 16 psi. I want to lower the pressure from the Fass pump cause its killing my fuel guage. The lowest pressure that I get at WOT is 15 psi. I run 1/2 lines that I got fabed at a hydraulic shop cause I hate fuel leaks and I'm planning for more bombing later on. I also had larger fittings installed as well. This makes for one nice fuel pump system, to bad it didn't come that way from Fass. Hopefully this helps.

 

How do you have the electrical set up. Mine used to do that. Changing the engine cured it, not sure why. Yes it is the FASS causing it, but not sure why. I do have a proceedure starting that goes better, I turn on the key and wait for the "wait to start" to go out which also shuts off the pump. Generally 2 to 3 bumps and it runs. Same as when new. The only thing I changed in changing the engine was drilling out the pump fitting to a larger size. Also my pressure is lower, on purpose, runs at 14 idle 13 wot. I see no reason to change it.

I have noticed one thing on the truck. If it is 1/4 tank or lower and parket with the nose high, it will not pick up right away and will crank a bit to start. Have an idea that a bottom feed would be better for the system. If I ever stop working on the engine I might do that.

 

I missed the pipe sealant on the port for the engine when I installed the FASS and have a slight air leak in the fuel system. I think mine will be cured once I finally find my 7/8" wrench again.

brandon.

 

My pump is just plugged into the old lift pump wiring. So I don't know whats going on here for you guys. I havent started my truck in 4 days and I had to see if I was full of it but it started just like I said. Its just like was proir to the Fass pump except that the truck runs smoother and less clangy. When its cold outside the pump works abit more cause I havent run the heater lines yet (probably wont either). The only time I have hard time starting is when the pump runs proir to starting the truck, and this is mostly do to the hi fuel pressure at the injection pump. I have gained about 2 psi of boost just from adding the fuel pump and the truck is feels alot stronger it than with the old lift pump. I had a new injection pump installed just proir to the Fass pump other than that she's the same.

 

I noticed today that mine actually turns a time or two before starting now.

 

Mine is wired to a relay and triggered by the original lift pump harness. If it dont start instantly I know something is wrong. Chris you seen how quick mine starts. My fass is set to supply 18 psi at idle, dont know if you have your press higher have heard that above 20psi will cause a hard start. Tim

 

I have the same harness everyone else has, I guess. Wired with relay into the factory lift pump harness plug.
I noticed it yesterday when I fired it up to leave Tim's place, then when I got home I messed with it a couple more times, shutting down and starting it. I posted the question before I went out this morning. I then went out to move the trailer and it started just like before. In fact, every time today, it started just like I expect it to.
I had third of a tank or a full tankwhen starting in the instances I noticed this, 120 miles in between.

Chris

 

Chris, if you can get to it, check the quick disconnect at the tank, mine is a little loose. After putting the engine in and before starting it the pump sounded like it was drawing air. After running a while and getting everything back to normal, the sound of air in the pump was gone. I have a hunch that it can get air through that fitting. I am going to eliminate my quick disconnect and see if it makes a difference. I have noticed that when it is working and starting real good, the instant pressure for the 2 second kick goes right up to 15, but when it seems to be drawing air it hovers around 5 or so til you get it started.

 

Haulin,

Due to me snapping off the end of the plastic quick connect inside the old line, mine is directly attached to the plastic fitting with a hose clamp. I tightened the clamp with a 1/4" nut driver and it sucked air. I tightened it with a small ratchet later and the air leak is no longer there. I guess software developers aren't cut out for wrenching on diesels.

brandon.

 

My quick disconnect was a piece of junk from the beginning. Before I even started it up the first time it was sucking air. That got eliminated in favor of straight hose and clamp, just so I could get the first prime done.

I don't doubt that it is a weak link because it seems like the o-rings in there are too big. It should feel a lot tighter when pushing it on. It worried me when I first put it on, but I figured I'd try it since I have been wrong before. Fatter o-rings might help, but how often do I pull it off that I need a quick disconnect?.

It was OK today. I'll drive it a few more days and see if there is any change.

Maybe next Sunday the PM3 will go back on.

Chris

 

Mine was hard to start since the install also.

Ended up putting the OEM filter back inline. Really helped alot. Starts fine when cold, but warm starting is still sometimes hit or miss.

Have been suspecting some kind of vapor lock, just havent figured it out yet. Might have to play w/ different pressures again w/ the oem filter inline.

Maybe also eliminate the quick disconnect at the tank & use a clamp.

Sure do love the solid fuel pressure the FASS provides, but really need to solve the intermittant hard start issue.

Edited: When its warm, it will start ok if you only wait about 1 second to start after turning the key on. If you wait for the pump to stop, it might not start for 2 or 3 attempts. Hit it quick, and youre running. This is only if its warm.. Cold starts are normal (wait for pump to stop before starting - and it fires quick, every time)

 

Putting the stock filter back on defeats the purpose of spending near $600. You need to find the problem with your system and just run the straight line from the pump to the VP44. The system works fine, needs no mods to do it, you have problem with the installation. You should have an air leak, would be my guess.

When you have problems starting, does it stumble a little after starting? If so that is air.

 

Yes. A slight roughness for a few seconds after one of its hard starts. Tnx for the input. Will re-check everything again.

 

Mine did it once today, cold when leaving work. Once it is running no stumble. Runs like a champ.

Chris