thank you dufrain, i have been hoping that i could find a 4-k with no springs. someone told me that the 175 pump would not support 370's and would skip or stumble between 800-1400, ok so if it reaklly does, how do i fix this? he said something about a pin or pins in the injection pump that the 215's had that the 175's didn't. could he be talking about d-v's and he also told me that i couldn't put the better one on myself..... B.S.!!!! i can do anything myself. i do plan on getting a turbo, a 40 or b-1. and how do you have your wastegate blocked off??? i got a bolt inside the exhaust housing holding it shut....

 

i got this from the tst website.
tst calls them "370 delivery valves" for $250.

"Used with the 370 Marine Injectors to smooth out performance. Recommended when using the 370 Injectors in a 160-180 HP Stock trucks. Set includes 6 delivery valves, o-rings and written instructions."
and the 370 injectors are 400 bucks. i need new ones anyways b,c i used a hammer to get the old ones out of the head so i have a good excuse for new(bigger) ones. aqnd on the 37 injectors it says "Delivery valves recommended to smooth low RPM chatter."
so it would be pretty safe to say that he was talking about d.v's when he talked about ins in the injectoin pump, but i could be wrong, dunno.

 

Yeah the 181 delivery valves are in the 215 pumps and they have the 215 injectors to supply.The 191 dvs are what most people use to avoid the miss with the small pump and the 370s but I think the 181s would work also..Peirs has them for around 250 I think.Adkins performance has them as well .Sounds like you will have a nice motor setup there when you get all your parts rounded up

 

I learned from the master himself(Piers) We opened up my 215 pump nearly 2 years ago in the parking lot after dark..The only light we had was the light under the hood and a couple of mag lights.
Piers showed me his perfered method of going right down the throat of the pump. He said yes its more dangerous this way but also you dont leak oil from the side of the pump.
When he got the nut and cover washer off..he lifted the big spring and just dropped it over to the side INSIDE the pump. Piers said that it was too big to go anywhere. All the other steps were about the same as described.
I have done a number of gsk's since then and each and everyone has been right down the throat of the pump. The last one I did took about an hour. That is down from the 2nd one I did on my own of 2 hours.
FYI: Sears sells a magnet that has a long flex head on it. I told a friend of mine about the tool that he might get before he did his springs. Sure enough he dropped the nut down inside the pump. But with this tool he was able to get the nut and he also found some extra shims laying in the bottom of the pump..

Rick

 

i am hoping that i will have a good setup when i get done. and does adkins have a website? i am going to look at those camshafts right now, i don't really want to pull the oil pan or the whole motor to change the camshaft later on....? i may just have to if i want a cam. but i think i will just leave it alone for now since i think they can run pretty good with a stock cam. and don't ya'll think its just crazy that a cummins has only one cam bearing!!!!!!!! i still can't get over that, i was looking in my oil pan and oil pump and filter for bearing pieces or shavings... something, but then the guy at the machine shop told me that ones all it needs and that he thought it wasn't the best idea in the world but that it works just as well!! crazy if you ask me. oh, and what do ya'll think about a federal moguil engine rebuild kit with pistons and all... cheap! 700 bucks for everything. do ya'll think these pistons will hold up just as good as the stock cummins for most streetable ower upgrades? to about 350-400 rwhp?? or is the trick just to keep it cool and then one set is good as another?

 

I would wait and install the gov springs while the pump is on the truck. If you do it on a bench you'll be turning the pump shaft to do the springs, and it'll be harder to find pump TDC when you install and re-time the pump.

 

well... the pump is alredy off the motor and i have turned it so i will have that problem reguardless... but i think i may have to do it after i put it on because i will be running low on money and i will just buy what i need to get it running again for right now. i may be picking my engine up tomorrow. i hope it runs like i want it to!

 

You can find TDC of your pump by pulling the pin in the side of the pump and reinstalling it in reverse. It is on the drivers side in front of your throttle linkage. Take the pin out and turn the pump shaft til you see the lever come around and then insert the end of the pin with a V cut into it. You should do this before you take your pump off, to keep it at TDC. New pumps come with it locked in this position.

Remember to turn the pin back around before you start your engine.

CRIS