First of all, sorryfor making yet another thread about sliding the stock fuel plate. I have been doing a little research about this, found this site:
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58

I was wonder, assuming I run into no problems, how long this should take to do for the first time? Anyone have any input?

Also, what is the thread diameter and pitch of the break-off screw? I would like to have a new bolt to put in its place when reinstalling.

I have full gauges installed, so I can keep an Eye on EGTs. When sliding the plate forward how important are the other adjustments? I tried searching for info about all this but when you search all I can find is numerious threads where the only information given is "Slide your plate forward" thats all the info given.

Let me know, Thanks, Tim

 

Tim, I don't want to offend you but I think you are making it a little too diffcult on yourself. I agree it's better taking easy steps, this is good.

I just did my plate last week, I was in same position as you are right now.
At the end it was a very straightforward and simple operation, I didn't slide my plate all the way forward I kept it approx 1/8" back, I don't have the immediate "surge" that others might have but I like it this way so I can control the power with throttle pedal.
The screw head will get reshaped with the torx tool, I actually used a long torx screwdriver and tapped it into the hole, reinstalling same screw was very easy.

I believe you will have to "experiment" with your settings, although mine are fine the way I set it for my need.

Honestly, just go ahead, follow the instructions and don't worry too much since it's honestly a simple job, I was scared too to open injector pump....not anymore now.

 

so is the star wheel on your truck turned all the way up?

 

Yesssss Sir, all the way up. with my truck is the position of the fuel plate that "commands" the response.
I tried today after I posted this (having fun with the truck) if I slide plate all the way forward truck is almost uncontrollable, it might be a timing problem too (advanced).

 

Bingo, everyone will want stuff set differently. I had my starwheel all the way loose for 3 miles, pulled into a parking lot to tighten it. Some love it loose. You will find what you like.

 

AS nick stated

starwheel plays a huge role in smoke control, so does your AFC (top of the injection pump u remove to move the plate) You will notice the holes are elongated and you can slide it full forward, centered, or back, in either case this will make a huge difference in fuel as well..

add that to the equation, Plate + afc + starwheel = your smoke and lower end power levels.. again these are three variables that must all be tinkered with to get ur desired levels..

Hey its half the fun of owning a P pumped truck

Rick

 

The break off screw is a PITA, but with a small punch and a hammer you can loosen it by tapping the side of the head. I found it MUCH easier than trying to hammer a torx into the head, and easier to get to. If I were you I'd buy 4 new bolts to replace all of them at the same time. I bought some but can't remember the thread pitch/size. I bought Allen head screws for mine.

I slid the stock plate on my stock '97 and it made a huge difference in power and responsiveness. I would have ground my plate to a #100, but I don't have gauges so I'm just taking it easy til my budget allows. The starwheel makes a very noticeable difference in smoke. Mine is pretty mild for now, but boost comes on very early now, and I love it.

Just play with the starwheel, housing, and plate locations til you set it how you like it.

 

There are 2 different lengths on the AFC screws. The small bolts closest to the engine were 6mm x 1.0 x 18 and the longer ones were 6mm x 1.0 x 24. I used allen head cap screws which you can get at any hardward store.

 

Break-off screw removal is easy, there are a bunch of posts on that. Some use a left twist drill bit, others a chisel, a few of about 18 different ways. I drill a 1/8" hole in the head, hammer in a torx, and out it comes, takes about 5 minutes. Research the posts for a lot of info.

 

so if i move my stock plate not all the way forward and turn the star wheel..do i need to worry about EGT's?

 

Maybe. Thus the importance of gauges. Gauges should ALWAYS come first.

 

ok..thanks, i guess i will buy some gauges first..anyone have suggestions for good gauges on a broke college students income

 

Stick or auto? Diesel Manor has Pyro/boost for like $225. Better safe than sorry with an engine

 

[QUOTE=displacedtexan;1355223]Stick or auto? Diesel Manor has Pyro/boost for like $225. Better safe than sorry with an engine[/QUOTE

its a stick, and thats about the cheapest i have found them too.

 

Don't flame me for this one, but I have a set of guages from Glow Shift on eBay, cost me $170 out the door, so far they work perfectly, and while the wiring diagram was all screwed up since they were made out of the country, I figured them out no problem.