I just went in and had the tranny serviced. They found metal flakes and burnt fluid. I was going to have the shift kit installed but the shop thought it might cause more problems. Is small metal flakes an indication of trans problem or is this normal wear. I don't notice any problems with the trans. It has never wanted to shift well from 1st to 2nd when the foot gets heavy, assumed this was normal. At any rate I will most likely install new trans from one of the companies used by memebers here if it is needed. But I am waiting for the original to fail. And of course I guess I am going to have to get the temp gauge installed. Anyone know of a vender that has the whole gauge set-up for post mount with trans temp, egt and boost?<br>Thanks for the help!<br>

 

How many miles do you have on it? And have you been doing the services on it? Chrysler transmission do tend to make metal and alot of shops do tend to use this as a selling factor telling you your transmission needs to come out and be overhauled. And the 1-2 shift issue you mentioned...Does it do it all the time or seem to be temperture related. If its all the time {and I mean every 1-2 shift} there is an adjustment that can be made if its late or to soon. The fluid on these also tend to darken because the converters run hot so fluid changes every 10,000 miles will help prevent this. A temp gauge will benifit you so you can tell when its getting hot. These tranys generate heat until the converter clutch applies then that cools the trans, So if you drive alot were you do not get to a speed were the converter can lock up your trans will get hot. And I know its not cheap but Chrysler fluid is the best to use, its not listed on the container but I'll bet its synthetic and synthetic fluid does not break down with heat as fast regular fluids...Well any way, I have to finish the yard. If your in the Dallas area I would have no problem lookin at that trans for you, Just beware before you let some BUTCHER pull your trans and slap you with a big/$2000 and up repair bill. Alot of problems can be fixed without rebuilding!!!

 

FrieghtTrain<br>I have about 85k on the truck and have done the service about 15k miles ago.<br>The shift issue is all the time, it is only when I try to accelerate from 1st at WOT. When it tries to shift it just sort of sticks and acts as though it is trying to shift but stays in between gears. I know this isn't the correct technical term but it is difficult to explain. I have to let off the throttle so it will shift. It does not happen often.<br>I didn't think that it needed rebuilt myself and I don't know this shop and don't tend to trust them.<br>I went on line and ordered a monitor to monitor the trans temp,boost and egt.<br>thanks for the input.<br>

 

A Trans-Go Shift kit is also a correction kit and fixes flares , shift hunting and shift timing problems. In my 15 years in the trany buis I have seen those kits fix alot of problems. Every Chysler RWD trans that we rebuild gets a shift kit installed because of the different problems not to mention low lock-up and line pressure. Not trying to tell ya what to do but you might want to think about putting one in it, You might just correct your problem and prolong the life of you Trans.

Well Good Luck with it...

 

If the metal flakes are normal wear then I probably will go ahead and install a shift kit, do you find that most kits are the same or should I look for the brand you listed?<br>

 

I would get a Trans-Go shift kit, Some kits try to reinvent the wheel and are much more involved and tend to create problems. And once you install a kit and have a problem unless you understand how a unit works hydraulically and electrically you might as well trash the valve body and separator plate and start over because you will not figure it out. Trans-Go has a pretty good kit and the directions are very clear on what to grind, drill and witch springs to replace. Over the years the majororaty of the transmission builders I know and have worked with prefer that kit. If you decide to do it yourself let me know before you tackle it and I’ll give you some info that will help you out. I think my cost on the kit was between $30-$40 then you have a filter and somewhere around 10 quarts of fluid depending how long the valve body is off. Or if you prefer I can check your area for an ATRA registered shop to refer you to and let them do the service. Probably pay about $300 that way. Anyway it’s late and I have have a little brunet calling me…Latter<br><br>

 

FreightTrain Sounds like GOOD advise to me.<br><br>awmasparky, I put in a valve body (SunCoast) at @ 9,226 miles I switched to Amsoil synthetic at the same time and went with a Mag-Hytec double deep pan. <br><br>My truck was pushing 425 HP this was in Sept of 01. I went to the Sun Coast converter @ 12,200 miles<br><br>One year later Sept 21, 2002 I had the trans serviced @ 32,248 Miles. The diesel performance shop I go to could not find enough clutch material in the pan to fill 1/2 a thimble, the bands did not need adjusting as well and the oil looked and smelled great.<br><br>I put on a new filter and filled up the torque converter and transmission with fresh fluid.<br><br>I now have 49,842 miles 570 Hp 1130 Ft/Lbs I spun off a set of tires at @ 31,000 miles and have done 1/4 racing and lots of break stands. Very hard on the trans.<br><br>I have told you all this because I believe that the V.B. was the part that made all the difference in the rest of the transmission as far as keeping things in shape, although in going to higher HP I needed to go to a better torque converter (it started to slip) but after this step it has been smooth sailing.<br><br>To date I have not had a problem with the transmission or anything else for that matter.<br><br>I hope that this and other information you get is “helpful” thanks OverFueled<br>

 

I had the shift kit installed and like the feel of it much better. It shifts from 1 to 2 great now. I also installed a tranny temp gauge. The gauge is will be replace with a X-Monitor some time soon I hope.

 

Ditto what freight train says. I just rebuilt my own and at 70k miles my clutches were still excellent and the bands were in decent shape. I wished I hadnt opened it up in the first place although a few bushings that didn't mic good did also get the can for new ones. The converter however was trashed! The front cover was as blue as the Carribean. New converter will cure that problem and as soon as I get one bug worked out (probably blew out piston seal on overdrive) due to high pressure and ring not seated propeerly ( my first OD rebuild) I will be pulling harder than ever. Good Luck and don't get ripped off!

 

OVERFUELED let us know exactly what parts you wanted and <br>where they are available. Any other suggestion for a 1999<br>3500, on second transmission at 50,000 on it. Working <br>but some rough shifting when easing around empty.<br>Have rebuilt several 350 and 400 Chevy transmissions.<br>30 years ago a reverse band in this case from the 60's<br>Thanks Wayne HKATWAY@AOL.COM

 

Valkyrie97, You going back in with a low stall billit???

And the lip seal on the OD piston...Let me do some checking, I am thing there is a aftermarket update on those seals for that same problem... I dont get my hands greasy any more so let me check with my builder Monday if you dont have it back together already.

Another thing is they got billit input shafts out now for these trannys, already snapped mine once...Could not find a better replacement at the time so I am waiting for round two.

Take Care,
FreightTrain Wayneo

 

OverFueled

How do you like the Suncoast valve body and TC. Which TC did you get, the triple disc or the single disc? I have heard good things about the products they sell.

Edward