looking to install the SBC upgraded hydraulics and have a question...it was sent with a white plastic cap over the end of the slave cylinder rod. this cab also had 2 'legs' that go back and fit in the slave cylinder mounting holes. do i completely remove this cap? or do i cut the 'legs' off of it? if i dont cut the 'legs' off, it seems the cylinder rod will have minimal travel. do i re-use the stock cap?

reason i ask is my Haynes manual says on step 19 under 'Clutch hydraulic release system - removal and installation' (page 8-4): "Install the slave cylinder. Make sure the cap at the end of the cylinder rod is seated properly in the release fork."

i didnt see any instructions in the box, couldve been thrown away by accident. so i need your help...

thanks in advance!!
Pat

 

i removed the cap completely by accident on mine it just made the clutch engage farther out on the pedal since slave cylinder wasn't extending as far as if it would have had the cap. your suppose to cut away the plastic legs on the sides and leave the cap in place. the legs just hold it in place for shipping reasons

 

^^^^

What he said, cut the "legs" away and leave the cap on.

That upgrade will make a huge difference. Mine has been great.

Chris

 

ur suppose to leave it on so the slave doesn't extend before u install it. The white pieces break the first time u press the pedal, and the white cap stays on (u need that). The two plastic pieces fall out the bottom of the bellhousing right away.

 

What difference did you notice?

 

trying to get my truck into gear has been getting continually harder. i have to shift to 3rd then to 2nd just to get it to slide into 1st (from a stop). and now reverse is even harder to get into. i can find myself getting 'stuck' at a stop sign/light because im struggling to get it into gear. and i dont have floor mats to remove to give me more room!

after reading what i could on this site and others, i decided the hydraulics were the culprit. we'll find out later today once i install it...

thanks for the help everyone!!

Pat

 

alright, i got it on and theres no more fighting to get it into gear. noticed on the STOCK master cylinder to be fluid by the sensor...im sure thats my leak and the reason for my shifting issues. all done though!

last questions/concerns...
1) for those of you that have done this upgrade, how well did the master cylinder lock on the firewall? i hit all 4 point and the seal is up against the firewall but it still has some play to it...well, more than what id think is normal. let me know what youve noticed...
2) when you twist the master cylinder 45* to its final position, it doesnt lock there. it stays, but doesnt have a 'locking' feel to it...i.e. putting a radiator cap on, when you twist it past the 'ramps' it locks itself into place. itd be peace of mind if i knew if it had some sort of mechanical lock to keep it in that position.
3) when removing the hydraulics when i replace the clutch, is there anything special i need to look out for? or just unbolt the slave cyl. and move it to the side?

maybe these 1 and 2 go hand-in-hand...was i suppose to re-use the stock rubber seal???

thanks!!

Pat