Thanks Steve..

I think you may not understand which bar uses what.. The track bar for lifted trucks uses the Rubicon express joint in double shear with a larger drilled out center but I think you are concerned with the stock replacement bar. ..... The stock replacement bar uses a massive, 1" bore, spherical bearing in single shear similar to the stock track bar. I designed a special chromoly high misallignment bushing to go up into the frame taper which now will use a 3/4" grade 8 bolt. It's a similar design to stock except for the load is now taken more in-line through the joint not to mention the fact that the new joint wear surface alone is bigger than the entire stock joint. That end is also replaceable by removing a snapring and sliding out the big teflon lined bearing which can be bought for about $60...

Edit: I still do not have enough in testing to absolutely be sure that some will not rub. It will be a very minor rub if at all but the new massive joint is just so **** close to the diff cover I just expect it to happen. It's the exact same size as a "lukes link" but moved to the driver side a little more which seems to make it clear better. I haven't actually had a good case of rub yet but I just see it happening and untill more are in circulation I want to make sure it's put out there...

 

Welcome to DTR Don, now you can answer these questions.

Don does EXCELLENT work. I have his track bar and cross over steering, and the stuff is over-engineered. He's a great guy to work with and you get the kind of service from him that you can only get from working one on one with a fabricator. He can usually modify his stuff to work with anything particular on your truck.

Custom fabricators are a dime a dozen in CA, and Don's work really stands out.

 

Don,

I have a Lukes Link on the trackbar and it has been "ok" but leaves a lot to be desired. I do like them on the tierods and it has saved me some bucks there. I recently replaced the bushing on the trackbar and a few months later the bolt came halfway out. Luckily my addiction for caffeine made me stop for an expresso...I was **** close to getting on the freeway and I am sure the bolt would have fallen out before I reached the office

I bought a new captured nut and used a 2' pipe to tighten the bolt, I checked it today and the dang bolt is loose and the Lukes Link needs adjustment. I am considering several products right now.

Is your trackbar hollow or solid?

Will the ring wear out or the ball?

Are the welds inspected by an independent lab and have the trackbars been tested to failure?

Do you offer a warranty or satisfaction guarantee?

Thanks

 

First Conrad, thanks for the above compliments....

243,
-The trackbar is hollow, 1.75" OD at the bends..

-if/when something wears out it would be the HEIM assembly together. That is the part which can be removed with a snap ring and replaced for about $60.

-my welds are not inspected as I am a VERY small, one man operation as of now, and I mainly cater to custom building off road intended rigs. Never had a weld failure as I am FREAK about detail and I guess offroad would be the best test as my "lifted truck" track bar has been out for some time with ZERO problems of any kind. They are essentially the exact same except for the frame end. Same bends, adjuster, and material...

-I will of course offer a satisfaction guarantee depending on situation... if the bar won't fit or function it can obviously be returned...

Conrad... feel free to coment on my welding..

Lets see if I can link a pic to one of my satisfied customers...

 

Welds look kinda like a bird flew over and did it's business....

In all honesty, my dad was a certified welder for over 30 years. His first comment when he saw the track bar and cross over steering was "Nice Welds". Usually his first comment is something to the effect of "too much heat", "bead is too flat", or "someone needs to learn how to push".

He must know what he's talking about, he never had a weld fail a dye-pen, x-ray or UT in 30 years.

P.S. Don, you can pay me later

 

I checked out your website and noticed that it says 94-01. I was under the impression that the 02s had the same suspension and steering components. If so I would definitely be interested.

 

Thanks Don,

Now I have another question. Why is the ball at or near the limit of it's movement in the cup in the photo from your website?

 

The ball is angled like that to try and correct the original problem in the first place.. The only reasoning I can come up with as to why Dodge angled the stud was to maybe try and get most of the load "through" the stud instead of snapping it off. In doing that, the joint itself has to see verticle loads which it was never designed for, hence the 10,000 mile life span... I rotated my joint as much as possible to get it so that 90% of the load through it(the joint) is latteral, instead of verticle, and still have about 8-10 inches of free drop from ride height at the tip of the axle end of the bar...

Don