Ok, after almost three years I am going to get gauges for my truck (some people are slow learners).
I have decided on the Isspro EV series. For the pyro gauge, I am getting the tri-colored version. Which of the 2 choices below would be my better choice of the two below for pre-turbo mounting of the thermocouple?

R3607TR


R3607WV


Thanks,
~Rob

 

The first one.....cause you don t really use it till it sees 1200.

 

Thanks for the reply 1320. I have a question about that though. Aren't the gases hotter on the post turbo side? What I mean is, if the gauge says 1200 and the t/c is pre-turbo, won't the post turbo reading be higher than 1200?

 

They are a lot hotter pre turbo.

 

The gasses are hotter pre turbo, and 1200 is still in the safe zone.

Gasses post turbo are between 300 and 500 degrees cooler, 1200 could very well be the melting point (as it would be 1500-1700)

Go with the first one.
The 2nd one is too big anyway.


phox

 

Okay,
Thanks guys.

~Rob

 

Your mounting the probe pre turbo right? You can drill and tap the exhuast manifold, but DO NOT put the hole in the center. It is a divided manifold so just pick a side, use some grease on the drill to keep as much metal debris out then tap it and screw in the probe. Alittle debris should not hurt anything it will just go out the exhuast.

Pre turbo...I ussually watch for 1200 then look at it, like pulling a hill. I ve run as much as 1350 all day long. 1350-1375 on hills, 1250-1350 for the rest of a 14 hr 1000 mile day. I was pulling a 50 ft trailer.

I am more comfortable at 1300 though .

 

Is it still possible to get an accurate reading post turbo. Not yet motivated enough to drill on part of my motor.

 

installing post turbo will have you drilling and tapping as well.its not that hard and its way more acurate,if you go post turbo then you will be guessing what the real temps are

 

So what exactly is the absolute highest PRE turbo mounted pyro temp reading anyone would want while pulling up a steep grade before attempting to cool it down a bit?

Also, what's the quickest way to cool it down fast ??

 

This link should answer all your questions.

http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf

Don't sweat drilling the manifold. Use vasoline on the drill bit, a magnet around the bit, and then a small magnet to dip in the manifiold. I've even heard some guys using a small hose on the end of a vacuum to be certain all the shavings are removed.

The TST diagram shows the thermocouple in the rear of the split passage and I have read that this is the best location, but I have two thermocouples, one for the pillar EGT and one leading to the juice box to protect from meltdown. I haven't noticed any difference between either EGT reading therefore it is my experience that you can mount the thermocouple in either passage and get an accurate reading.

 

1300 is the line. The easiest way to cool down is to back out of it. I still have a stock turbo and I can only stay in it for about 10-12 seconds with the juice all the way up.

 

Thanks !!

I was told to downshift too. Is this correct ?? I'm curious how that would make the EGT goi down fast if that's true ??

 

I've never had to downshift to get the EGT to drop although I have heard some other folks suggest it. Once you have the gauge installed stand on it hard and keep your eye on it when you let off, the EGT will drop immediately. By letting off you are shutting off fuel and boost which is what creates the EGT's.

 

Down shifting takes some of the load off the motor which will drop your egt's some.......sometimes when you are towing heavy you just have to slow down to cool things off!

GTSMKD: mount the probe pre turbo.......it is just too inaccurate to measure egt's post turbo on our CTD's........