Pic of 2nd Gen Cometic Headgasket
08-23-2007, 12:20 PM
#32
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Dusty,
How tight did you torque those nuts? If I recall, ARP says to torque them and then loosen them 3 times in sequence. Then do a final torque. No subsequent re torque is needed.????????
How tight did you torque those nuts? If I recall, ARP says to torque them and then loosen them 3 times in sequence. Then do a final torque. No subsequent re torque is needed.????????
08-23-2007, 05:29 PM
#35
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Weeeellll, I Did Loosen Them A Few Times. See Starting This Project I Tried To Use A Common Rail Head Gasket. I Drilled The Oil Holes So They Lined Up With The Head And Plugged The Old Ones. It Would Have Worked Because Other People Have Done It. The Problem Was I Knicked A Water Jacket On #6 When I Drilled It. Oil Came Out The Lower Radiator Hose When You Would Start It. I Had Another Block, The Original Was A 53 Anyways So I Rebuilt, Balanced, Polished, Yada Yada. Go Ahead Laugh. It's Funny Now, It Wasn't Then. So I Have Had It Off A Few Times. The Whole Time I Was Converting It To A P7100, Which Can Be Trying In And Of Itself. Cometic Wouldn't Sell Me One So I Did What Any Red-blooded Amercian Cummins Freak Would Do. I Begged. I Have Them Tightened To 150 And No Problems Yet. No Retorques So Far.i'll Try To Keep You All Updated As It Goes.
Dhawk
Dhawk
08-23-2007, 09:59 PM
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08-23-2007, 10:09 PM
#39
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I am pulling 140 on mine and this is the second hg.
(First time on fire rings now) The first one was only tightened to 120. Alot of it has to do with feel, the long studs that come up through the rockers are the scary ones.
(First time on fire rings now) The first one was only tightened to 120. Alot of it has to do with feel, the long studs that come up through the rockers are the scary ones.
08-23-2007, 10:47 PM
#40
Registered User
I emailed them last night about the 12 valve gasket and this is what they said.
"As of right now we do not offer a 12v gasket but is on our list of new
gaskets to make. The hold up is going to be the tooling that embosses the
gasket with the sealing areas. Once we have this tooling created we will
begin testing."
Time to bombard them with e-mails and phone calls.
"As of right now we do not offer a 12v gasket but is on our list of new
gaskets to make. The hold up is going to be the tooling that embosses the
gasket with the sealing areas. Once we have this tooling created we will
begin testing."
Time to bombard them with e-mails and phone calls.
08-23-2007, 11:39 PM
#42
Registered User
im in the process of changing my truck back. from the o-rings which ive had nothing but problems with, to the mls gasket i have 2 spare cummins engines layin around and will be pulling one of the heads off them and puting it on my current truck in sig, i am torqing the studs in this sequence,
50 ft lbs and then increased to 135 ft lbs in rounds of 5lb increments. Once the studs were at 135 ft lbs the engine was left to sit for a period of 2 hours without being started. Once the 2 hours expired the torque on the studs was once again increased in 5 lb increments until a final torque of 150 ft lbs was reached. and i will report back after to tell how everything is doing.
50 ft lbs and then increased to 135 ft lbs in rounds of 5lb increments. Once the studs were at 135 ft lbs the engine was left to sit for a period of 2 hours without being started. Once the 2 hours expired the torque on the studs was once again increased in 5 lb increments until a final torque of 150 ft lbs was reached. and i will report back after to tell how everything is doing.
08-24-2007, 12:07 PM
#44
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The ARP instructions ----if I recall---say 125lbs, and they say you don't need a retorque. Where do you guys come up with all these other methods and torques??
Scheid has just come out with a new "type" of gasket that should be here today. They told me it will handle 70 PSI. I will be using the 12mm studs and this new gasket. I was going to use o-rings, but they want me to try this gasket.
Scheid has just come out with a new "type" of gasket that should be here today. They told me it will handle 70 PSI. I will be using the 12mm studs and this new gasket. I was going to use o-rings, but they want me to try this gasket.
08-24-2007, 12:14 PM
#45
Registered User
remove valve cover, rocker arms, push rods, injectors, turbo, and manifold. You will want to drain the coolant, and then reomve and odds and ends that I forgot. Unbolt the head and remove it----IT"S HEAVY!!!prep the surfaces and reinstall!!