I was talking to a guy at a diesel shop and he was saying that modifying the fuel plate is not a good way to go for more power, something about just making smoke. He was saying that getting it calibrated is the best way to go. I have read a lot of good stuff about plates on this site so I'm confused. Is he just trying to line his pockets by talking me out of a cheaper do it yourself job with the same result. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The calibration is done by the plate and it's position- but it's a good idea to check the pump on a stand to adjust it to get zero difference iun volumes.

By installing just a plate you rely on the assumption that everything else in the pump is good (because you don't touch it)
Since you have already beefed up your tranny I'd suggest that you get a governor spring kit before you change the plate- with a wider powerband those trucks are really much more fun to drive.

(Actually a plate change puts more stress on the tranny than a governor spring kit change because the GSK will only let you rev higher with the same torque whereas the plate increases the torque)

AlpineRAM

 

YES !!!!! Total BS.

 

Many ways to skin a cat / or what have you .
Its easy to knock him without his giving his idea [ benefit of doubt ] .
He may or may not be trying to do you or him good .
He may be thinking that you have a 95 [ how many miles ] you want more power , if I had access to a bench , before adding power I would like to make sure that the pump is up to the job , then I also like to think that I am going to blend [ get the most out of each part / having them work together ] , most put there truck on a dyno , are they saying no more of that ?
Point being that you asked him for advice & we are taking issue with him through what you are saying , with the whys .
Again he could be taking you , but you found a guy with a bench make sure that you write him off with proof , kinda like , do not put a new part in with out a test to show its bad .

 

Sending the pump in to have the output increased is money well spent. Not all shops are equal in this task. The difference between a stock pump and one that has had the barrels rotated, rack travel changed and re-balanced is amazing. Don't forget that the afc will have to be modified too. Last one I had done was in the $500 range. I have had 3 done. PDR did the first one. Industrial injection did the second , Ponci's did the 3rd. PDR and Ponci did a great job. Industrial injection did not mod the afc and the performance was lacking untill i figured out the mistake.

 

So, being that the truck is getting old, I should get it calibrated before messing with the plate? He said it is $250 for the removal and installation and $250 for the actual calibration. $500 sound competitive? He also said that I wouldn't need to worry about gauges if I just get it calibrated. True or False?

Last question for now: If I wait on the fuel stuff and start with just the GSK, are gauges needed for that? Thanks so far for the help, this site has really changed the way I look at these awesome powerplants.

 

I would put a boost and pyro on even a stock truck. Even with internal pump mods you should install gauges. Pump setup is not a bad idea, I know this is a little extreme but you could say that just putting a plate in is like taking a old old 454 BBC and dropping a Denominator carb on it and expecting to get the same results out of it as a really tuned engine. It may do good but not like it could. I think it would be $$$ will spent to have it done but I would send it to PDR or some place like that to have the work done. That way it will make the most out of the plate. It will likely lower EGT's and help MPG's. Factory done work is done to a relatively large range on the parameters and heaving your pump set up exactly right would be nice.

 

Just being calibrated is not the same as having the output increased. Not all shops will bump the output.

 

I know its not the same but you would be suprised what correct calibration will do for power and MPG. It will just help you get the most out of what you do to it. Looks like you have a realy nice setup. I didn't mean that you would gain 70hp from just recalibration, just that it would work better with other mods. I know PRD and Ponci's do a lot more to the pumps to get more power.

 

He isn't trying to screw you, or at least i doubt it, you can gain a fair bit of power by turning the pump up on a stand without even modifying anything. Of course im not talking 50hp but fuel output can be bumped up a fair bit. I work at a diesel pump shop so i know what im talkin about.

Best of both worlds is a aftermarket fuel plate and having your pump calibrated on a stand. It does cost more but you pump can be tuned to run much better. We get pumps in fairly often that fuel heavy on 1 cylinder or vice verse, 1 has low fuel. Having it balanced out nicely helps.

Oh and govspringbounce, seriously dont call total bs on something you have no idea about.

 

Finally got her in to get the pump worked on. I have spoken to the guy that originally told me about this a few more times, and he really sounds knowledgeable. He told me that he could "turn up" the pump while he's got it off, so I told him to have at it. I expect it back Wednesday, so I will report back with the outcome.

 

Got the truck back tonight from the shop. Before the manager would give me the keys, he told me that he was disappointed with what they got out of the truck. They said that the pump was pumping even, but only about 75% of specs. After they fixed it and got it back on the truck, they couldn't make it smoke at full throttle like they always do after the calibration.

When I drove it, I noticed a small increase in power, but nothing like I expected. He said that there must be something else interfering with the fuel delivery. I have a new lift pump and I can't see any fuel leaks so I was wondering what else should be checked.

He told me to bring it back when I have time so he can work through the possibilities at no extra charge. He also said that he might look at adjusting the aneroid(?). Does anyone know what this would do?

I appreciate any guidance regarding this issue. I'm kind of frustrated after paying $600, and the truck feels the same (slow).

 

Did they change the plate in it? The aneroid is the AFC, which can limit rack travel if not modified or slid all the way forward. Sliding all the way forward will fuel hard off the line, which will make lots of smoke, but might not get you on your way quickly. Did they adjust the timing?

Put a plate in it, mod you AFC (search on here, 12valve did a write up with pictures on it) and see if that helps.

 

There are several things to consider before making changes to the pump itself.

You need to make sure fuel pressure is within spec.

Have your injectors tested for proper operation.

Timing at spec, advanced or retarded?

Boost signal good to pump.

Boost pressure numbers at spec or low?

You have no cat convertor so that's ok. It can be the simple things that cause problems.

Also check the fuel shut off arm travel. It should be at full travel to fuel properly also.

Anyone else with more ideas?

Ronnie

 

When the shops do a calibration.What do they calibrate??or adjust?Seems like you only could do so much adjusting without replacing internal parts.