I called a reputable machine shop and they quoted me at 15 dollars a cylinder for oringing, is this a decent price. Also they said they can install the studs as well, however they said they have to pull the engine to install them. This caught me off guard, I didn't think that was nescessary. I don't plan on pushing more than 60-70 psi of boost, will orings, 12mm studs, and .20 over head gasket be enough? Thanks for the help guys.

 

I dont know much but, I have always been told you dont have to pull the motor to install studs, just real awkward when you get ot #5 and #6. As for the ringing, it sounds like a decent price, but I did my whole motor as a package, so I dont really have a price break down...
Good luck to ya

 

You can stud the head in frame. Put the studs in just like you would put the head bolts in, one at a time after the head goes on.

Ronnie

 

Well... I'd run the other direction if someone told me they had to pull the engine to install head studs. Are you sure they didn't think you were talking about main studs?? Their price for o-rings sounds a little low as well.... less than $100 for the whole job??

 

so you don't have to drill out bigger holes for the studs? I will probably just have them do the orings on the head and I will install the studs and head back on the truck. What do you guys recommend for a head gasket. Is the PDR gasket really worth 250 bones, or a .20 over will do the job? Thanks for the help guys, I want to keep this as cheap as possible so I have more money for the twins i'll be building.

 

if you want you can give me a call I live in Jville. I just had mine done send me a PM.

 

For 12mm studs you may need to bottom tap but not tap bigger holes. As far as doing them with the head on the truck there are holes on the underside of the cowl so you can pull them out. They are very simple just make sure you do them right and do all the retourques, mine just got A BUNCH of new stuff (i should have listened to JohnP) I wish I was home I'd help you out but I'll be in Camp pendleton until early april. Depending on how many miles you have when the head id taken off you will more than likley need some work. My head was decked 5thousandths and a 20 over modified 12v gasket was used. This setup should hold plenty of boost. If you have anything else you wanna know shoot me another PM.


Pete

 

That $250 gasket may be the Cometic MLS gasket. This gasket won't work with O-rings, and has had a high failure rate. I'd say just get your standard marine gasket. You might not want or need the .020 bigger gasket. You will lose about 1 point of compression with the thicker gasket.

 

whats different about a marine HG over a standard? thicker? more than .020+


I got my head off tonight................ holes look surprisingly good.......

Tate did you get prices from cummins when you were HG shopping? before you got that cometic.

 

Negative. Cometic was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread, so thats what I bought. Lesson learned. Will likely be going the same route you're going now, although hopefully it will be scheduled maitenance, not breakdown maitenance.

 

I'm going down the same route as you guys.
Getting everything done at one shop, including #60 valve springs and getting the rockers machined.

I plan on taping the holes today to get the threads nice and clean and sprucing up a few things in the engine bay as I wait for some parts to arrive!

 

Is the guy putting in fire rings in the block or putting o-ring's in the block? 14mm studs you need to machine the block and adjust/clearance the head some. This is the only reason you need to pull the engine. Studs are a pain to install next the firewall. If I remember correctly I used a stock head gasket out of the cummins top end kit. The most difficult part in installing an o-ringed head is not to damage the o-rings during the installation. They have to be in the head and can't be hanging out of the o-ring slots. I had my head laying on a cardboard face down for sometime. This might have helped to keep those little rings in. Just before you put the head onto the block take a good look at the head to make sure nothing has came out. I used a engine hoist to put the head on and was very carefully to line everything up prior to lightly dropping the head on top the block. Plan on lots of re-torquing cycles. Those o-rings will compress lots in the first few days so don't beat on it to hard.

 

I don't know what kind of power that you plan on making but IMHO you really don't need to stud the engine unless you are going to twins. I am simply going to O-ring it and use a Marine HG and new bolts from Cummins. I know a lot of people out there making lots of power with this simple combination. That is if it's done correctly.

 

He is right if you nip it in the bud it can be taken care of by o-rings and a better gasket. But you will need to have new head bolts anyway and $435 studs are good insurance. Mine would have lasted but I beat on it way too hard with my 62/12 and alot of damage was already done. Mine seemed like it was surging really bad under heavy boost but after what I was told what my HG looked like I was probly loosing compression betwen cylinders.

 

thanks for the help guys. i will be going with 12mm studs and I am looking else where to get the head work done, maybe out of state. I don't want to have to do this twice.