Well I am looking at buying a head that has o-rings and 110 springs. My question is there anything that I really need to look for before I buy it. Can the rings be reused when it is taken off its current truck or will I need to get new ring. I have never dealt with diesel head work so any and all help would be appreciated. I am doing this because I believe I blew the gasket or cracked the head pulling this weekend pulling at 58psi with stock bolts and gasket. Thanks again

 

Anyone.....please

 

I was told by pdw if the rings look ok and none are sticking out you are ok.

 

You have to watch on how deep they go on the cut for the groove for the o-ring and diameter of the wire for the o-ring. Some shops put in too thick of wire and groove isn't cut true to the head. Ask these questions prior to purchase, if they start dodging you with BS, go somewhere else. I would recommend Peak or PDR for a oring head. Buying from these shops will save time and money on blown head gaskets down the road. If you're using you're own head, have the head checked for cracks and do some simple porting on the bowl and exhaust port.

 

I am buying it used off of a motor that was in a truck that was wrecked, so I would assume that if it was holding in that app. it will be fine as long as he was running the same numbers that I am right?

 

Check for cracks. The 24v VP head is prone to cracks from the valve seats into the chamber. How many miles on the head? Was he towing with the truck? When removing the head, be carefull with the o-rings. That why I prefer new a head vs. a used head thats been heat cycled lots. I have a PDR stage 2 head with orings that has a big crack in the #2 chamber. Trust me I was abit mad with that as it only having about 50k miles on it. Every used head that I looked at was cracked beyond servicing. I just pressure up the air intake and exhaust manifold side to around 100 psi. If you have a problem, you'll see right away as there would be a blast of air coming thru the crack. Coolant leaks, you could figure that one out easily.

 

Bowl? Not following?

RJ

 

The area under the valve by the valve guide, typically called the valve bowl. A good clean-up on bowl floor, stay away from the roof as you want good smooth flow. The CTD needs help on its exhaust side of the head port more so than the intake side. Usually that enough to improve the exhaust flow without tons of work. You will see an improvement on you're spool-up, max HP and egt's. Of course the higher HP you are, the more gains you will see. I think PDR has a simple how to on there website. Of course do the porting prior to getting the valves done, as you might nick the valve seats. Its cheaper this way.

 

He says it only has 6k on it and only seen 50psi. It had a valve job and magnafluxed by Poole. What should I be looking for with the o-rings, because I am not taking it off he is and is going to meet me

 

Make sure that they are not damaged and still in place. I wonder what size of wire Poole using for the o-rings? You could pull them out and measure, but make sure the go back in the same direction and orienation as they come out. You could also measure the protrudsion (how far the o-rings stuck out). At 50 psi, you really don't need orings. I go pass the 70+psi a few times, so I need them. Still check for cracks. You don't want junk. Was the head shaved? You might need a thicker gasket. You'll will have to clean-up you block very good and check for straightness along the deck. I bought a cleaning tool for my die grinder, that just removes the old gasket material/rust/carbon but no metal. Put plugs into the oil holes, and coolant passages, so nothing goes into the holes. I used a wire pipecleaner to clean them out afterwards. The cylinders will rust very fast, so whip on some light oil or light grease. I even put oil into the rocker arms and some lite grease on the push rods ends. Hopefully this helps, I've done three head gaskets this year. Don't forget about the fuel drain line at the back of the head. If you lift the head off without removing that you'll bend the fuel lines and wreck stuff.

 

What size wire do you use?

 

Mike, thanks for the help. I will check everything real good before I buy it. The only reason I am buying this one is because mine is going to be blown very soon, and I really cant afford much down time sending my head out. He said it was resurfaced but he didnt say how much was taken off but I will be sure to find out. Thanks again guys