I am working on a buddy of mines truck, it is a 94 2500 auto with about 150,000 miles. We put on 5" exhaust, afe intake, turned the starwheel all the way forwards, put on a boost elbow and put in a #10 plate that i had layin around and it didnt run much better after all that then it did before. So i slid the plate all the way forwards and still nothing. i then took the #10 out and put a 0 plate in and still made no change. i thought it may be a boost leak so i hooked a gauge up and it easily pegs a 35 psi gauge so i know that is not the problem. It will smoke a little but not like it should for a 0 plate. HELP PLEASE I HAVE NO IDEAS

 

could it be a fuel delivery problem? they use mechanical fuel transfer pumps right?

 

Is the goerner arm adjusted so it is hitting the bottom of the plate, and not diving under?

And yes, our lift pump is mechanical.

 

im not sure about the governor arm or how to adjust it, i have never messed with one. if the lift pump was bad wouldnt it go out all at once?

 

Here is a link on how to adjust the governor arm- http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

 

A guy I know had a low-power problem. His fuel cutoff solenoid wasn't adjusted properly, and was only moving part way. Adjusted that, and away he went. Something to look at.

 

thanks for the link on how to adjust the arm. how can u check the fuel cutoff soleniod tate?

 

Not speaking from experience, but I would make sure it is not twisted in a way that would prevent the normal range of movement. Just make sure it went back in place right, not getting jammed to where it woul not function properly.

 

anymore ideas?

 

What are the EGTs like?
When was the fuel filter last changed?

 

Another vote for governor arm, mine did the same thing. MAKE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE NUT DOWN FULLY!!! Else you'll be back in there again fishing it out, or having to yank out the whole gosh darn pump. Ask me how I know!

Make sure after you set the nut, it still hits the plate and doesn't slide under, sometimes the bolt turns with the nut when tightening it.

Fair warning, it's a PITA. The 2 bolts to remove the rear cover I found easiest to remove with vice grips, may want to replace them with a hex head to make it easier in the future. They are a blind hole, so make sure you get the right length bolts.

You're going to be doing this blind, can't see crap back there. I used a socket around the nut, with a jewelers screwdriver through the middle of it, then snugged it down.

 

the fuel filter was just changed about 2 weeks ago and i dont have a spare pyro so im not sure on egts

 

I wouldn't run a zero plate without a pyro. It may be ok on a 160 pumo, but without one, you don't know untill it is to late.

 

i agree but he is a tight a$$ and says he wants the truck running good before he goes out and puts money into gauges