New to Mod game
08-08-2005, 08:38 PM
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New to Mod game
I have a 96 2500, extended cab, 4X4, 5 sp with 215 hp pump. Had it since it was new and love the truck. Just moved up from a 24 ft travel trailer (4400lbs) to a 31 ft at nearly 7000lbs and would like to get some more pulling power. Drivetrain is totally stock so I'm starting from scratch. I've thought about the Banks Power Pack but reading some posts indicate that I might get more for my money/effort by other mods. Any suggestions, I'm not really looking for a loud race truck; just a nice sounding older truck that will keep up with the new 300 hp/600 ftlbs torque CTDs. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
08-08-2005, 09:24 PM
#2
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You could probably just do the right fuel plate and be done with it. I don't actually know which one is the "right" plate for you though. Those more knowledgeable about the 12v's will let you know. You just have to keep the bombing bug in check once you get started though. 
Oh yeah, the mods are gonna move this one to the Performance forum in a few minutes, trust me.
Chris
Oh yeah, the mods are gonna move this one to the Performance forum in a few minutes, trust me.
Chris
08-08-2005, 10:03 PM
#3
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Welcome to the site. I had to reply because your truck sounds just like mine. So far mine's close to stock. I've given it a couple degrees more timing, and a couple more PSI boost. Stamey's got the right idea, a fuel plate is a good place to start, and it's likely all you need. After that, maybe a less restrictive intake and exhaust.
The sky's the limit, have fun.
The sky's the limit, have fun.
08-09-2005, 12:45 PM
#4
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Re: New to Mod game
Originally posted by smithrk01
I have a 96 2500, extended cab, 4X4, 5 sp with 215 hp pump. Had it since it was new and love the truck. Just moved up from a 24 ft travel trailer (4400lbs) to a 31 ft at nearly 7000lbs and would like to get some more pulling power. Drivetrain is totally stock so I'm starting from scratch. I've thought about the Banks Power Pack but reading some posts indicate that I might get more for my money/effort by other mods. Any suggestions, I'm not really looking for a loud race truck; just a nice sounding older truck that will keep up with the new 300 hp/600 ftlbs torque CTDs. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
I have a 96 2500, extended cab, 4X4, 5 sp with 215 hp pump. Had it since it was new and love the truck. Just moved up from a 24 ft travel trailer (4400lbs) to a 31 ft at nearly 7000lbs and would like to get some more pulling power. Drivetrain is totally stock so I'm starting from scratch. I've thought about the Banks Power Pack but reading some posts indicate that I might get more for my money/effort by other mods. Any suggestions, I'm not really looking for a loud race truck; just a nice sounding older truck that will keep up with the new 300 hp/600 ftlbs torque CTDs. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
all that remains from mine is the exhaust housing, the stinger is gone, the gauges are on their way out, and the ottomind has been moved forward.. A banks powerpack is a nice setup dont get me wrong, mine is at about 330/750-800 at the rears with the ottomind (plate) full forward. But there is better out there. FOr your needs the banks would be great, but its too big an investment for you to make IMHO, my truck came with it, so it is my basis and for my needs it more than serves them.
A number 10 plate, and a governers spring kit will really make that ride better, the governers spring kit, or GSK comes in 3K or 4K settings, the 3K will really widen your powerband, then again that is what they are supposed to do. Then ten plate is rated at about 330/750 as well, it says that the stock clutch wont handle it, but if your easy on it it will, I have run my stock clutch with a zero, and a 100 plate, and the banks full forward.. Please see my photo gallery for a pic of the banks plate, you can use it as a comparison to a 10 plate if u like, gunracer has a 100 in his profile and northslope grinds a killer 100 plate!
If you are mechanically inclined, that 3K kit is about 150 at most, and the ten plate about the same, A GOOD SET OF GAUGES IS A MUST.. if you are gonna start to move the plate and play with the AFC housing. Bein that youve had ur ride for a while, im gonna assume u know what the AFC is, and what the starwheel is.... If not in short terms, the AFC is where the fuel plate lies, and the starwheel is so to say your fine adjust for smoke and low end, looser allows more fuel, tigher is the inverse...Best of luck and hope this helps... Im not bashing banks not at all, I still have their lil logos on the side of the truck... and for ur needs it would be a blast.... Just at my age and BOMBING becoming VERY VERY addicting, and hard on the pocketbook, i will say more power can be made for less... Mine has lost the stinger exhaust and the boost gauge at 30 PSI is well.. useless......
Welcome to DTR.. Im not biased but thats a fine ride ya got there......
Tx
08-09-2005, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for you inputs so far, I think you've got me headed in the right direction. I should have mentioned I plan on replacing the exhaust system soon as the original is starting to rust out in a few places; I plan on a turbo back 4" exhaust and losing the CAT. Any suggestions on where to locate a good system at a decent cost? Also a good source for the gauges? Thanks for the info on the starwheel and AFC, I'm fairly mechanically inclined; but honestly I have left the truck alone as it has performed soo well so it's all new to me, the new camper simply requires more so I'm looking for more power. Keep the info coming, I'm a spounge; I think all of you are right though, I'll become addicted and more mods will be coming.
08-15-2005, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for the info; here's what I've decided so far. I'll start with a 4" turbo back exhaust and set of guages followed by some sort of air cleaner box to increase air flow. Once that is done, I'll order a fuel plate and 3K GSK. That should give me enough to start with, here's where I'm asking for your help; I need suggestions on what is the best exhaust system, air cleaner box kit, and GSK and where to buy. I need a bit more info the fuel plate as I'm not that farmiliar with them, what's the difference between a #0, #10, and #100; which one is right for me and where is the best place to buy. This is a great site for CTD owners, thanks in advance for the help. I'm not on a tight budget but like value for the money.
08-15-2005, 07:10 PM
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go with a #100 plate and delivery valve and call it a day... thats enough to make you happy for a while because after those mods you will notice that you can out accelerate most cars from a dead stop with the trailer fully loaded.......my buddy had those 2 on his for a while and we would have 5 cars on the 35' trailer and we would find ourselfs watching the MPH and looking back to everyone........
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08-15-2005, 09:38 PM
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do a search on this site for them......there is a lot of info on them...i dont know all that much technically about them but i do know that these are the only mods we installed besides gauges and it made a really big difference.....
08-15-2005, 11:17 PM
#11
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Originally posted by storx
go with a #100 plate and delivery valve and call it a day... thats enough to make you happy for a while because after those mods you will notice that you can out accelerate most cars from a dead stop with the trailer fully loaded.......my buddy had those 2 on his for a while and we would have 5 cars on the 35' trailer and we would find ourselfs watching the MPH and looking back to everyone........
go with a #100 plate and delivery valve and call it a day... thats enough to make you happy for a while because after those mods you will notice that you can out accelerate most cars from a dead stop with the trailer fully loaded.......my buddy had those 2 on his for a while and we would have 5 cars on the 35' trailer and we would find ourselfs watching the MPH and looking back to everyone........
WHOA ud be in BIG BUSINESS...
even moreso an aftermarket turbo, cause ur stock clutch and your stock turbo will be screamin for mercy with a 100 or a zero full forward, and if u get on it, even moreso!..Tx
08-15-2005, 11:23 PM
#12
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Storx
GSK,
Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my "award winning"
explanation....
Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
best of luck and enjoy the new ride...
Tx
Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my "award winning"
explanation....Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
best of luck and enjoy the new ride...
Tx
08-16-2005, 05:27 AM
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all i know is when we put those mods on his truck he had to start out in 3 sometimes 4th when unloaded because there was so much more torque that it was making the tranny buck.............
08-16-2005, 05:28 AM
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Originally posted by TxDiesel007
Throw some 370s in the mix..
WHOA ud be in BIG BUSINESS... even moreso an aftermarket turbo, cause ur stock clutch and your stock turbo will be screamin for mercy with a 100 or a zero full forward, and if u get on it, even moreso!..
Tx
Throw some 370s in the mix..
WHOA ud be in BIG BUSINESS...
even moreso an aftermarket turbo, cause ur stock clutch and your stock turbo will be screamin for mercy with a 100 or a zero full forward, and if u get on it, even moreso!..Tx
delivery valves take care of getting 370s............ no need afterwards
08-16-2005, 10:05 AM
#15
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Originally posted by storx
all i know is when we put those mods on his truck he had to start out in 3 sometimes 4th when unloaded because there was so much more torque that it was making the tranny buck.............
all i know is when we put those mods on his truck he had to start out in 3 sometimes 4th when unloaded because there was so much more torque that it was making the tranny buck.............
So ur sayin that 370s with DV's would be murder? I predict alot of smoke, and killer EGTS, without the right turbo, and insane power and TQ with the right turbo... Whats ur take on this? I know injectors can be PITA to install, but i have no experience with DV's how tough are they? thanks
The more I look at this combo... The better it seems to look, and with a zero, a 100, a good clutch, better timing, a good turbo, and better air.. Seems to be a dynamite combination!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...temZ7990771417
But then again i know nothing of this company, but the deal is good...
Tx
