whats up yall! im new to this site cause im lookin into buying a cummins! i just cant squeeze any more power out of the old 6.5, she runs great but not good enough .
im lookin for about a 1999 to a 2001 cause this is basically my prise range for what i want! i came to this site cause i figured you guys could help me out, tell me what to look for in a used cummins and so forth...

first off i want something i can give a lot of fuel and air, and still be dependable enough to drive daily(thats why im chosing cummins). ive seen many trucks around here with the edge box and big turbos and injectors. are these engines reliable? edge offer a good box? i dont want to get crazy with the truck, just enough to dust any furd or duatrasher around here! were their auto trannys pretty durable in these trucks or am i better off with a manual? 12v or 24v? im assuming you can only run programmers in 24v's right? what some of the weak spots in these trucks to look for?

any help would be greatly appreciated.... thanks in advance

aaron

 

wantin' to sell the blazer?

 

if you are going to get an automatic, AND boost power, you will be spending money on an aftermarket trans. the 47re(2002 i think and older) are weaker than the new 48's. the 5 speed isnt as strong or as flexible as the 6 speed. the shifting is too often though. the trucks with the p7100 pumps(96 to 98) are much better to build and longer lift than the vp44 trucks(99 to 2002-03). the newer 04.5 and up trucks have great potential with the ease of computer upgrades.

guys if i have the years wrong, help me out.

 

depends on what kind of truck i find

 

are there any dependability differences between 12v and 24v? if i could i would buy a new common rail truck but cant afford one yet!

 

A 12v should survive a neculear bomb, the 24v have fuel pressure issues, and that will kill your inection pump, but are still very reliable engines.

 

IMHO a 98 12v 5 spd manual would be a perfect canidate for your needs!

 

I'll seccond that!

 

The only advantage that 12v have over 24v's in dependibility. The the 12v run the p7100(94-98). Which is a very reliable pump and they have a mechanical lift pump wich is very reliable. The 24v have a VP 44 injection pump, one of the problems with the pump is that it is fuel cooled/lubed, and when the unreliable factory lift pump goes outit can take the IP with it. A fuel pressure guage can help imensly in monitorying the lift pump. As for reliability with High HP, you can see what I have in my sig and I'm not worried at all about daily driving it(normally drive on street in valet at 500HP)

 

so is the p7100 a electronic or mechanical pump? i like the idea of adjustable tuners. big power and soot when i want it but not always.

 

p7100 is all mechanical, that's the good part of it

 

If you buy a 24 valve, the very first thing I would do is get a FASS. This will make sure you are getting plenty of fuel pressure to your VP44, so it won't fail. I would try and get a 2001 or 2002 to keep away from the dreaded "53" block that some of the earlier 24 valve trucks had. Then get gauges and a comp or smarty. Or you could get the Edge Juice with the Attidude controller with all the gauges you will need. Its like the comp with gauges built in plus many other cool features like a turbo timer. I would get a manual tranny because they are fun to row through the gears and more durable than the auto. Be sure and cut the muffler and resonator off right away if it hasn't already been done so you can have something to listen to besides the radio! I like the 24 valves better myself simply because they come in a newer truck and more likely to find one with lower miles and in better shape. Either motor you go with, I know you will love it. Enjoy.

 

thanks guys, what the dreaded "53" block?

 

It's a weaker casting moreso from 98-00, but it can be found in 01's too. It will have a "53" in a couple places cast into the block. Many folks have had good luck with it, but several have failed too.

If you get a 24 valve, address the fuel system first and foremost. You'll spend $500 or so to do this but it needs to be done. A FASS pump is good, but one of the more expensive options, BD and Bully Dog both have a pusher pump set up that will work to for less than $250.

If you can find a good 12 valve, buy it, but they are getting hard to find that aren't worn out. You just won't have any adjustability in the cab with electronics, but you get some good free mods by just doing a little work.

Good luck, Matt

 

the 53 block ----> http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=185