New to Dodge CTD family, what now?
New to Dodge CTD family, what now?
I have been reading and searching on here all morning, and am impressed with all I see, but also confused. I am a chevy gas guy that needed something to drag my toys around. I bought a '00 3500 4x4 5sp CTD. It has an open K&N element on it, but nothing else. I am jealous of the power that my friend's 02 HO 6 speed has, and I need to know what I need to do for more reliable power now that won't roast my bank account. buy a performance box, buy gauges to monitor stuff first, exhaust, what? Looking for educated opinions
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
so wait on buying a box until after I have the exhaust and clutch. I am looking at links to different suppliers of 4" exhaust.
What about gauges, which brand, where to get cheap?
thanks,
Kelly
What about gauges, which brand, where to get cheap?
thanks,
Kelly
get the gauges ISSpro with the piller mount = $340
then go with the scotty air = $230
and straight pipe your truck = around $50
then you wont have to worry about your EGTs for now
the straight pipe droped my egts 150 degrees but my truck is loud

then choose your fueling box
then go with the scotty air = $230
and straight pipe your truck = around $50
then you wont have to worry about your EGTs for now
the straight pipe droped my egts 150 degrees but my truck is loud

then choose your fueling box
Kelly,
First, welcome aboard.
I too read the threads for a long while before I had something worth writing about.
Obviously, you've already picked up on the need for gauges, but this is a preventative measure only. That is, it gives you a way to monitor various engine systems, but you're asking about performance here. BTW, I use ISSPRO EVs.
As you're dealing with a 24v CTD [post 1998.5], you must keep the VP44 injection pump in mind when you perform mod's. Not only is this one of the primary motivations for all the gauge text you've read, but it's also the best way to keep from ROASTING your bank account.
You've got a 5-speed, so the typical tranny worries are not a big factor for you. Nonetheless, you still have a 24-valver AND budget concerns, so you must proceed with caution. If you're looking for mild performance gains, the airbox and exhaust mod's are a good step in the right direction.
Another thing to look at is an injector change. If you look around, you can get some good reliable power for a decent price--without as many VP concerns. I know I'll get some "my box has been mounted for so many miles without a hint of trouble" stories, but I believe that many of the black boxes are hard on the VP44...and for every good BOMBer story, there's a bad BOMBer story as well.
In short, if you've got a real concern about budgeting for your CTD upgrades, keep reading the threads from people who've only done mild upgrades [look at their signatures to determine this].
I've driven the '04 HO quite a bit, so I have a decent idea about your stated target. The HOs run very good, but the 24v in your truck can get to that point without breaking the bank.
PM me if you want more details and/or fueling issue information--I've got quite a bit of it.
Have a great one and the best of luck,
Bill
First, welcome aboard.
I too read the threads for a long while before I had something worth writing about.Obviously, you've already picked up on the need for gauges, but this is a preventative measure only. That is, it gives you a way to monitor various engine systems, but you're asking about performance here. BTW, I use ISSPRO EVs.
As you're dealing with a 24v CTD [post 1998.5], you must keep the VP44 injection pump in mind when you perform mod's. Not only is this one of the primary motivations for all the gauge text you've read, but it's also the best way to keep from ROASTING your bank account.
You've got a 5-speed, so the typical tranny worries are not a big factor for you. Nonetheless, you still have a 24-valver AND budget concerns, so you must proceed with caution. If you're looking for mild performance gains, the airbox and exhaust mod's are a good step in the right direction.
Another thing to look at is an injector change. If you look around, you can get some good reliable power for a decent price--without as many VP concerns. I know I'll get some "my box has been mounted for so many miles without a hint of trouble" stories, but I believe that many of the black boxes are hard on the VP44...and for every good BOMBer story, there's a bad BOMBer story as well.
In short, if you've got a real concern about budgeting for your CTD upgrades, keep reading the threads from people who've only done mild upgrades [look at their signatures to determine this].
I've driven the '04 HO quite a bit, so I have a decent idea about your stated target. The HOs run very good, but the 24v in your truck can get to that point without breaking the bank.
PM me if you want more details and/or fueling issue information--I've got quite a bit of it.Have a great one and the best of luck,
Bill
Welcome aboard, Kelly.
The 24V engines are susceptible to the damage caused by low/missing fuel pressure. Youll want to monitor the FO with a guage of some kind (I recommend mechanical for reliability and accuracy).
You'll also want to consider Exhaust Gast Temperature (EGT) gauge (aka pyrometer) and a boost pressure gauge.
These 3 gauges are the min for a manual trans truck. Auto trannies need tranny temp.
Exhaust modifications are completely unnecessary until over 350hp or so, so save the money. Your gauges will tell you when you need exhaust/turbo modification (high EGT). I have the stock exhaust and dynoed 390rwhp. EGT is manageable, and will just kiss 1400° here in the high altitude (6100')
I have the Autometer gauges, but the ISSPRO EV is probably the best out there for readability. The S.P.A. gauges are the most accurate, but VERY $$$. The advantage of the SPA is that you have both boost and EGT in only one gauge hole, so the install is cleaner.
Power increases will come from increased fueling-- either a performance box or larger injectors. Injectors larger than a 50hp increase or so will require some kind of boost fooler (which is built into all performance boxes these days). So if you start with a box, you're already prepared for large injectors. Injectors alone will stick you with a standalone boost fooler that you won't need if you get a performance box.
The most popular "beginner box" is the Edge EZ, which I have run for 19 months. It adds a lot of pep on the bottom end, and advances timing a little bit. Some see less mpg, some see more-- most note no chance in mpg.
However, I would STRONGLY encourage you to use the Edge Comp as your first box:
-- it does everything the EZ does
-- it's adjustable from inside the cab (turn off/on, adj power level)
-- you don't have to hook up the wire, just run it like an enhanced EZ until you are confident in your inj pump.
If you elect to connect the pump wire and explore the extra 90hp or so it provides, I recommend SLOWLY turning the box up to let the pump get used to the workload. Install the box and run on power level 2 for a month or so. Then level 3 for another month. Then maybe level 4 for another month.
The idea is to gradually ratchet up the power. If you just drop it in and crank up the box, you might be walking home. Once you reach level 5 and the engine handles it (most do just fine), then your inj pump is good to go. THERE IS NO WARRANTEE ON A PUMP WITH A TAPPED WIRE. IF IT GOES, IT'S ALL OUT OF POCKET. That said, the risk is not that high and mostly associated with 98 and 99 model trucks.
Finally, some injectors will complete the package. The Mach 1.5 from Don Morrison will give you every bit of 85hp, and BETTER mpg.
With a comp and Mach 1.5 injectors, you will have MORE than enough power to tow any legal weight trailer under almost any conditions, and you'll have very little smoke and good mpg.
If you have excessively high EGT (over 1350°), then either slow down or look into ways to get more air into or out of the engine. This means:
-- air intake systems like the Scotty 2 (~$200)
-- a larger turbine housing to open up the exhaust (~$130)
After this, sky's the limit
Justin
The 24V engines are susceptible to the damage caused by low/missing fuel pressure. Youll want to monitor the FO with a guage of some kind (I recommend mechanical for reliability and accuracy).
You'll also want to consider Exhaust Gast Temperature (EGT) gauge (aka pyrometer) and a boost pressure gauge.
These 3 gauges are the min for a manual trans truck. Auto trannies need tranny temp.
Exhaust modifications are completely unnecessary until over 350hp or so, so save the money. Your gauges will tell you when you need exhaust/turbo modification (high EGT). I have the stock exhaust and dynoed 390rwhp. EGT is manageable, and will just kiss 1400° here in the high altitude (6100')
I have the Autometer gauges, but the ISSPRO EV is probably the best out there for readability. The S.P.A. gauges are the most accurate, but VERY $$$. The advantage of the SPA is that you have both boost and EGT in only one gauge hole, so the install is cleaner.
Power increases will come from increased fueling-- either a performance box or larger injectors. Injectors larger than a 50hp increase or so will require some kind of boost fooler (which is built into all performance boxes these days). So if you start with a box, you're already prepared for large injectors. Injectors alone will stick you with a standalone boost fooler that you won't need if you get a performance box.
The most popular "beginner box" is the Edge EZ, which I have run for 19 months. It adds a lot of pep on the bottom end, and advances timing a little bit. Some see less mpg, some see more-- most note no chance in mpg.
However, I would STRONGLY encourage you to use the Edge Comp as your first box:
-- it does everything the EZ does
-- it's adjustable from inside the cab (turn off/on, adj power level)
-- you don't have to hook up the wire, just run it like an enhanced EZ until you are confident in your inj pump.
If you elect to connect the pump wire and explore the extra 90hp or so it provides, I recommend SLOWLY turning the box up to let the pump get used to the workload. Install the box and run on power level 2 for a month or so. Then level 3 for another month. Then maybe level 4 for another month.
The idea is to gradually ratchet up the power. If you just drop it in and crank up the box, you might be walking home. Once you reach level 5 and the engine handles it (most do just fine), then your inj pump is good to go. THERE IS NO WARRANTEE ON A PUMP WITH A TAPPED WIRE. IF IT GOES, IT'S ALL OUT OF POCKET. That said, the risk is not that high and mostly associated with 98 and 99 model trucks.
Finally, some injectors will complete the package. The Mach 1.5 from Don Morrison will give you every bit of 85hp, and BETTER mpg.
With a comp and Mach 1.5 injectors, you will have MORE than enough power to tow any legal weight trailer under almost any conditions, and you'll have very little smoke and good mpg.
If you have excessively high EGT (over 1350°), then either slow down or look into ways to get more air into or out of the engine. This means:
-- air intake systems like the Scotty 2 (~$200)
-- a larger turbine housing to open up the exhaust (~$130)
After this, sky's the limit

Justin
Thank you guys for the welcomes and the advice. Of course I will do it slowly as the money comes, but I think the consensus is put the gauges in and watch my fuel pressure as to not waste a pump. I just want a little more right now, I am not going to race anyone. I want to pull my trailer (3600lbs) and my trail rig (4400lbs) with ease and maybe gain some mpg. My friend with the 02 HO put a K&N in and a cheaper box and saw 4mpg better and more power, but it smokes in the low revs. a little better mpg and a little more power is my goal. It looks like if I buy the comp, there is no way I will tap the wire.
Mine already has the big K&N open element installed, it came that way. I will probably just run that unless it is seen as a bad thing. In that case, I know lots of guys around here that are drooling over it.
Thanks again for all the advice,
Kelly
Mine already has the big K&N open element installed, it came that way. I will probably just run that unless it is seen as a bad thing. In that case, I know lots of guys around here that are drooling over it.
Thanks again for all the advice,
Kelly
From wht I have read on this site, dump the K&N to one of the "Droolers", then buy either the Scotty for your future needs, or a BHAF (see Tech Facts) for now. The BHAF flows tons of air without the concerns of the oiled guaze K&N. I am sure others have much more insight on the K&N plusses/minuses and can write in here. For my money, the BHAF is probably the next modification for my truck. Then, I am seriously considering those Mach 1.5's!!
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I have googles isspro ev like 10 times now, have found several places that sell all 3 gauges, but I don't see the a pillar mounts. who makes this, just auto meter? will my new 2" isspro's fit the auto meter a pillar mount? what quality are these gauges, crappy?http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/gauge_kits_dodge.asp
probably have to cut and paste it
I want to get on this right away, and would love it is there is a kit out there that has my pyro, fuel and boost with an a pillar all set up as one unit.
where have you guys been getting the best prices?
Thanks,
Kelly
probably have to cut and paste it
I want to get on this right away, and would love it is there is a kit out there that has my pyro, fuel and boost with an a pillar all set up as one unit.
where have you guys been getting the best prices?
Thanks,
Kelly
Give Rod at Wildcat Diesel a call.
He sells the Isspros as well as the pillar mount, and you'll get all the other miscellaneous hardware needed also.
www.wildcatdiesel.com
Be prepared to leave a message, but he'll get back to you that day most likely.
phox
He sells the Isspros as well as the pillar mount, and you'll get all the other miscellaneous hardware needed also.
www.wildcatdiesel.com
Be prepared to leave a message, but he'll get back to you that day most likely.
phox
I got the combo set #2 from diesel manor on this link http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/isspro_combos.asp
here is the pillar mount
http://www.dieselmanor.com/pillars_p...uge_mounts.asp
Here is the link to the individual gauges from isspro since you wont need a trans temp gauge.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/isspro_gauges.asp
I like the rainbow face pyro R3607TR because it matches my stock gauges pretty well on my 95 and the color indicators are good if your new to monitoring a pyro like me and if someone drives your truck you can tell them keep it out of the yellow.
they were the cheapest place for the gauges i could find and they were very helpful on the phone.they will price match to.If you call in your order the shipping will be cheaper than if you buy from the website.If you have any trouble installing the gauges or any issues at all you can call up isspro and they are real helpful also.
here is the pillar mount
http://www.dieselmanor.com/pillars_p...uge_mounts.asp
Here is the link to the individual gauges from isspro since you wont need a trans temp gauge.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/isspro_gauges.asp
I like the rainbow face pyro R3607TR because it matches my stock gauges pretty well on my 95 and the color indicators are good if your new to monitoring a pyro like me and if someone drives your truck you can tell them keep it out of the yellow.
they were the cheapest place for the gauges i could find and they were very helpful on the phone.they will price match to.If you call in your order the shipping will be cheaper than if you buy from the website.If you have any trouble installing the gauges or any issues at all you can call up isspro and they are real helpful also.
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