Need a TST#4 Torque plate
That #4 is one gross sucka.
It'll make your drivetrain make some nasty vibrating sounds. Obscene low end fueler. Theres a pic of one on my gallery. See if you can adjust your arm to contact it on the ramp.
It'll make your drivetrain make some nasty vibrating sounds. Obscene low end fueler. Theres a pic of one on my gallery. See if you can adjust your arm to contact it on the ramp.
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From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
Re: Need a TST#4 Torque plate
Originally posted by Bad 6X6
I want to get a TST #4 torque plate. Does anybody have a used one they want to get rid of.
I want to get a TST #4 torque plate. Does anybody have a used one they want to get rid of.
Some companies will do a trade on your current plate..as long as its the TST plate.
I traded my #11 plate for a #10 plate. These #10 plates are tuning a radio..if you dont what you hare hearing on the radio tune it.. A little fine tuning goes a very long way.
Now if you really want to get
..use one of those #100 plates..Its a #10 plate for the bottom ramp and then a #0 plate once you hit V of the #10.
Rick
I traded my #11 plate for a #10 plate. These #10 plates are tuning a radio..if you dont what you hare hearing on the radio tune it.. A little fine tuning goes a very long way.
Now if you really want to get
..use one of those #100 plates..Its a #10 plate for the bottom ramp and then a #0 plate once you hit V of the #10. Rick
Jerk them?
Sounds like great advice.
Just wait till a few months down the road when your rack arm pin bites the dust for $1200 worth of damage. You should have at least a #0 plate to avoid damage.
Some folks don't like having their eyes peeled on the pyro the entire time they're driving and a plate that matches their needs is the best bet. I perfer the #10.
Sounds like great advice.
Just wait till a few months down the road when your rack arm pin bites the dust for $1200 worth of damage. You should have at least a #0 plate to avoid damage.
Some folks don't like having their eyes peeled on the pyro the entire time they're driving and a plate that matches their needs is the best bet. I perfer the #10.
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Bill, have you gone to a 10 in one of the 95s, if so how do you like it. I'm considering swaping my 5 for a 10 to see if it reduces egts. I can make 1400+ in 5th with no load on the truck.
I've already backed the 5 down from the center position a few thou.
I've already backed the 5 down from the center position a few thou.
mopar, I went from a 4 to a 10 on my auto, biggest difference is the 10 is so much smoother. I didn't/don't have an egt problem empty but with a load the 4 was hotter.
My feeling is your high boost is what's causing the heat. Need to get it down in the mid 30s either with adjustment or a bigger turbo.
12valvesmoker, I hear you on doing things different for a racer/puller but the correct plate certainly has it's place for a street truck. To me having to watch the pyro all the time is like running a rig with too small of a radiator and having to slow down or stop to cool down. I like the idiot light way of driving where you don't really need to pay any mind to the gauges till you know a situation is coming that might push things.
My feeling is your high boost is what's causing the heat. Need to get it down in the mid 30s either with adjustment or a bigger turbo.
12valvesmoker, I hear you on doing things different for a racer/puller but the correct plate certainly has it's place for a street truck. To me having to watch the pyro all the time is like running a rig with too small of a radiator and having to slow down or stop to cool down. I like the idiot light way of driving where you don't really need to pay any mind to the gauges till you know a situation is coming that might push things.
Originally posted by Jim Fulmer
I've got a question about the plates, if there so bad then why does my pump have one in it? Could it be to schedule fuel at a given point.
Jim
I've got a question about the plates, if there so bad then why does my pump have one in it? Could it be to schedule fuel at a given point.
Jim


