Is there a way to mount a wired switch on the steering wheel where the optional steering wheel controls for the radio go (it's on the backside of the wheel)? I'm not sure how that part of the wheel comes off and how you'd route the wires. But I'd like to mount a little switch box for these Warn SDB-210 driving lights/spotlights that I'm looking to get there. The box has a button to switch between highbeams and lowbeams.

 

'02 FSM says this is the removal procedure:

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the driver side airbag module from the steering wheel. Refer to Electrical, Restraints for the procedures. (This procedure covers a page and a half, with several diagrams.)
(3) Remove the speed control switch located on the same side of the steering wheel as the remote radio switch that is being serviced. Refer to Electrical,
Speed Control for the procedures.
(4) Disconnect the steering wheel wire harness connector from the connector receptacle of the remote radio switch (Fig. 17).
(5) Disengage the four remote radio switch latches that secure the switch to the inside of the mounting hole in the steering wheel rear trim cover.
(6) From the outside of the steering wheel rear trim cover, remove the remote radio switch from the trim cover mounting hole.

 

Have you seen this??

http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=790&CATID=1

 

If you don't go wireless what will happen to your wiring when you have to make a full turn?
It will have to wrap tight around the steering column when turning or hang down on your knees.

 

Bill makes a good point. I don't have those switches on mine, so I'm not sure what they control, exactly, but if they're for volume and scan I'm guessing they're more of a momentary switch than anything that allows a constant state in the on position. Otherwise, you might be able to tap the wiring somewhere under the dash and run a relay or something.

That thing from Geno's, holy cow! $219!?

 

Yup, nothing good is ever cheap....

 

I have the switches on mine. The left hand switch is a big momentary rocker for scan up/dn with a button in the middle that goes through your preset stations on the radio and the right hand is another big momentary rocker for volume control. They control more depending on if you are in CD mode or Radio mode. But all the switches are momentary.

 

I say wire in one of those factory switches and wiring except hook it up to a relay to get it to keep your lights on.

 

If you really want to do it, you can use the momentary switches to latch in and drop out relays to control the lights. The schematic would get a little involved, but not that bad.

Use a DPST relay as the primary with a 12VDC pulse from the momentary switch to energize the coil. Use one set of contacts tied to the 12VDC supply with the output going to the coil circuit to "latch in" the relay once it is energized. The other set of contacts can be used to power or ground the lights as applicable.

In the power supply line to the DPST relay, use a SPDT relay with the power supply to the DPST relay coil going through the NC contacts of the SPDT relay. Now, use another momentary switch to power this SPDT relay. When you power it up, the NC contacts will open and will kill power to the coil of the DPST relay and drop it out, turning off the lights.

Rusty

 

Thing better make toast and mix drinks for that much...

 

True enough....

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm really just wondering how the factory switches interface between the wheel and the column. In other words, how does the factory setup overcome the steering wheel bind issue?

My truck doesn't have those switches and I don't really care to get those exact switches. But I would like to be able to mount the particular switch that comes with the lights onto the wheel, hopefully using the same method that Dodge used.

 

Dodge uses a device called a clockspring to link the steering wheel switches to the truck's electrical system. As you might expect, this clockspring can coil and uncoil as the steering wheel is turned without binding or breaking. They were somewhat problematic on earlier trucks as a search on "clockspring" will reveal.

Rusty

 

I think that since it's such a PITA to mount switches to the actual wheel, I'll instead mount the switch to the cowling that is directly behind the wheel. That's still within reach while holding the wheel and seems to present less than half the problems.

 

I put three of them in the dash bezel. Round body, square bezel on the switch, so I just had to drill holes and slide them in. On the back side, the tabs that the wires mount to had to be bent over slightly to make room for the connectors. The wires run up behind the dash and have bullet connectors on them so I can pop the dash bezel out, disconnect the wires to the switches, and pull it off completely if need be.