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Mechanical fuel pressure gauge

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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 05:40 PM
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Mechanical fuel pressure gauge

If I get a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, do I have to get an isolator? What else do I need?

Dima
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 05:46 PM
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Nope and I highly recommend that you don't get one. Give Rod at Wildcat Diesel or Merrick at Laredo Performance Diesel a call and they can hook you up with everything you need and nothing you don't.
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 01:28 PM
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I have been running an Isspro mechanical without an isolator for several years with no problems. However, I Do carry tools to fix any leaks that may occur. You could probably just install a needle valve under the hood to shut off the fuel supply to the gauge if there were a problem.
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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No isolator here.
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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From: Springtown Texas, the land of MILFs and Honeys
I run ISSPRO with a needle valve. No isolator. If it springs a leak, I can turn the needle valve shut till I can get it fixed.

It's not going to leak though. ISSPRO is good stuff and I used a bulletproof line and fittings to do the connections with.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 09:09 AM
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It was discovered with the Isspro gauge that if you run direct to it with your fuel line it will get a rattle to it. The simplest way to fix this is to install a small ball valve inline to cut the flow down to the gauge. Just keep opening the valve until you reach your normal FP at idle.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 10:24 AM
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From: The Great White North
Originally posted by hellotbone
It was discovered with the Isspro gauge that if you run direct to it with your fuel line it will get a rattle to it. The simplest way to fix this is to install a small ball valve inline to cut the flow down to the gauge. Just keep opening the valve until you reach your normal FP at idle.
A ball valve is not the answer......it is too hard to control flow with a ball valve. A needle valve is what you want. Like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835780&ccitem=
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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From: Montana
This one is actually better Dr.
It's 1/8", the size most often used for automotive gauges and lines, no reducers needed. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 11:52 AM
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I used the one Bill is speaking of.



Click on the thumbnail for a larger picture.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 12:20 PM
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From: Aurora, Ontario
Sorry I meant needle valve.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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From: The Great White North
Shovelhead,

Is that 1/4 S.S.? Do you happen to remember the length? Ive been looking for some reasonably priced S.S. braid but cant find any....Ill probably have to call Rod.

Thanks.

PS, Bill I just closed my eyes and picked a needle valve from the Grainger page
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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I didn't know the length.
I just called Rod @ Wildcat and he sent me a Stainless Braided line with -AN fittings that worked perfectly.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 08:17 PM
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I run a isolator and I've never had a problem and My guage always works.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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the only problem with not having a isolator and rigging up a needle valve ball valve if you spring a leak in your cab while bombing down the freeway at 70 mph how long is it gonna take to shut down your engine safely diesel leaking from behind an a-pillar or all over your carpet makes a pretty undesirable mess not to mention the smell
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 10:43 PM
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From: Wet Coast, Canada
No isolator here
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