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Loud banging, snapping from front end

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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 12:23 PM
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Loud banging, snapping from front end

I have an 01 ram 2500 with a dana 60 4.10 gears. I just replaced every inch of brakeline and put in a new driveshaft center support bearing in it, took it for a ride, and it is making an awful snapping/bang/clunk from the front end. It only happens when moving, randomly. Sometimes its one snap, sometimes its a few quickly in a few seconds. Occasionally I feel a quick "binding" feeling before it "snaps."

Before I replaced the bearing, which broke free from the rubber, I drove the truck ~20 miles on the highway in 4wd to limp to a rest area to safely wait for a tow home.

Any ideas? I'm thinking its cad related, a wheel/hub bearing, or its a ring/pinion/spider gear issue.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 12:44 PM
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I take it that you didnt touch any driveline component on the front since you only referenced the rear driveshaft. But the noise you're potentially hearing from the front is the front driveshaft double cardan joint making noise. The CAD front axle trucks are part time 4wd which means the front driveshaft isnt spinning at road speed while driving. Its just sits there and maybe slowly turns a little bit. But once you engage 4wd the driveshaft will spin and lock in the front axle. If you're trying to drive on dry solid ground like asphalt or cement then the front axle and rear axle will fight each other and bind since they dont spin "exactly" the same speed and turning will cause crabbing and severe binding. Only use 4wd in loose wet conditions.

I'd suggest parking the truck on level ground with the tranny in neutral and the e-brake on. With no pressure on the drivetrain, grab ahold of the front driveshaft and tug, pull, twist, bang on it with your hands and look for ANY odd movements in the u-joints, yokes, and double cardan joint.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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The issue is occouring now after the work. I did not touch the front end at all, and the noise is occurring in 2wd. So the double cardan on the driveshaft should not be moving.
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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No, the front driveshaft will NOT turn in 2wd while you drive if you have the CAD front axle. So make sure you're actually in 2wd or that somethings not hanging up and keeping it in 4wd.

A good way to test is with the truck "running" and in 2wd, set the e-brake and make sure the tranny is in neutral. Climb under and try to turn the front driveshaft by hand. If it turns somewhat freely then its disengaged and the noise or problem is not related to the front driveshaft. But if it doesnt move by hand and is engaged then you're most likely hearing/feeling the slack of the two drivelines fighting each other because its in 4wd on dry ground.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 05:51 AM
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I did a basic check over after it happened the first time. Balljoints and tie rods have a tiny bit of play. However the wheel bearing seemed ok. Yesterday (after all my driving around to diagnose it the other day) I rechecked the wheel bearing and it is DONE! Lots of slop, and now you can hear it when you spin the wheel by hand.

Here's the deal though, someone butchered this thing before. There are only 2 out of 4 bolts in it. They are both rounded off. I'm going to have to cut the hub off and knock out the remaining bolts. Does anyone know what thread the hub to knuckle bolts are offhand since I'll need 4 new ones?
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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Bummer..... The joy of used vehicles. Ya never know what interesting thing the PO did.

In regards to your new finds, I dont have the answer to your question. But that said, I'd suggest starting a new thread specific to what you already know and want to find out. Better than asking random questions deep in this current thread because most people wont even read through to here in order to find what you discovered. A new thread will gain you everyone paying attention again.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 06:58 PM
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Hub to knuckle bolts are 14mm 1.5 pitch...I had to clean the threads on mine last time I did the u joint. They are a high strength bolt, I would get them from dealer or a good supplier. Standard hex head bolt doesn't fit well, stock is 9/16 12 point.

Also make sure that axle nut gets torqued down real good, and pinned. If it is at all loose the bearing will get destroyed.
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