So, my boost is leaking into the crankcase. I'm assuming it is a head gasket and I'd sure like to do the work my self and not have to pay someone over $1000 to get it done. Now, I just want to be sure and get all the parts I need before I start.

.020 Marine Gasket
Exhaust Mantifold Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket ??

What other things would I want to have on hand other than something to lift that enourmous thing out of there?

Will I have to set anything if I pull the head? Will the valves and rockers and everything work properly if I pull the pushrods and then put the same ones back in the same holes and torque everything correctly? I just want to make sure I don't get into a pickle here. I have tools and brains...just not experience pulling a head!

 

I would reccomend that you throw some studs at it too while you have the head off if you can.

 

copied from the other thread in case you end up needing to do the HG

well its not too hard to do the head gasket. are you adding o-rings or fire-rings, or just doing the marine gasket? modified 12v marine gasket is $200 from PDW (PM jetpilot or call him 717-557-7060) studs are $400-$450 and would be good for you with the fuel and air you are pushing. also add another $100 +/- for misc gaskets and supplies you will need.

if you pay someone to do the work you are looking at another $800 or more in labor (that is if you add the studs, they are alot of work to get torqued properly). its not difficult to do, just need a cherry picker and some time to do all the work. it could all be done in one weekend if you can keep at it. let me know if you need any more info/help

edit:

misc gaskets/materials you will need include
-manifold to turbo inlet gasket (could be re-used but for $5 id replace it)
-turbo oil drain gasket, they tear easily
-2 heater grid gaskets
-some good brakleen or parts cleaner
-emory paper or gasket cleaning wheel for grinder/air tool
-new coolant, 6 gallons (gonna need to flush it out because is likely there is oil in it)
-oil change materials while you are at it

*if you add studs
-12mmx1.75 bottoming tap (good idea to get at least 2 in case one breaks)

 

why do you think its a headgasket?

 

For the uninformed such as myself, whats the deal with the .020" gasket? Is it just to lower the compression, or does it hold up better? Do the injectors need to be set deeper into the head with smaller shims to keep their spray at the right level?

 

cherry picker? blah im a small guy (barely 6' if that right at 200 and by all means not built like a stallion) and i took mine off by myself

whats the 2 gaskets for grid heater? my grid heater is made onto the long intake plate (guess thats what that thing is).

 

taking off the head is fine, you get into trouble trying to put the head back on with out a cherry picker. we dinged up a gasket when we put it on by hand, it started leaking about 5k after we put it on.

 

its not used for the purpose of lowering compression, we use it because its much heavier, and mostly metallic instead of paper. much stronger than the stock head gasket. when used with o-rings for even more cylinder sealing, and studs for a very tight clamp/crush of the gasket, you get a very solid and stout combo that can hold high HP as well as 70-80psi or more from twins.

jetpilot could explain it better

 

heck, I nicked mine USING a cherry picker, and I'm 6'4" 250

it was on one of the silicone surrounds on an oil passage, but it nicked in the center of the silicone and didn't tear through if that makes any sense... also hosed the gasket down w/ a bunch of spray on sealer I was in a pinch and had to get it together like NOW, so rolled the dice... it's been seeing 48psi regularly... really don't want to do that gasket again any time soon! LOL

anyhow, you MUST re-set the valves... I re-set the valves when I do re-torques! but you're putting a thicker gasket on there, definately set the valves.

also, I know it's a pain when it all hits at once and you've gotta spend a bunch of money to get the thing running again, but I'd highly recomend doing head studs... there's no time like the present when the head's already off

 

very true especially since that makes it a million time easier to bottom tap the holes for the studs

 

Now that I've learned a lot from yesterdays barrage of post, I don't think that is a head gasket now. I thought that because I pressured up the intake and air was leaking out through the motor, sounding like it was going into the crankcase. That seemed strange to me and the gasket was the only think I could think of between the air and the oil. I have learned that there is some overlap in the valves and air could be moving through and be normal. I still don't under stand why it sounds like it is going into the crank. It should be sounding like it is coming out the exhaust pipe. I guess the sound gets amplified by all that metal and who knows where it is going.

I tried to delete the this whole post because I changed my mind on the problem before too many replied to it, but I guess we don't have the power to delete an entire thread even if we start it.

 

You're going to have leakage past the rings (especially when cold), which would allow air into the crankcase.