Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

J-Hook Install question

Old Apr 4, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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J-Hook Install question

Ok i have tried to put the J hook on my 2001 dodge and the instructions suck, they say make the spring to it is 1 3/4" well the spring is 2" when you get it, so i'm assuming they meant the coil part of the spring, but when i have the thing almost tighten to the end it still isnt 1 3/4" so where do you have yours tighten too? any help will be great
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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Good question. Mine is in the mail and i would be askin the same question when i got it. Anyone Have an answer?
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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no one knows?
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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just with the information here it sounds like they want you to shorten the spring. can you post a link to the instructions?
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Go to xtremediesel.com, search j-hook, select bully dog j-hook, Its under additional information= instalation sheet.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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the turnbuckle doesn't look like a allows for very much stretch. i would say that they are refering to the coil part as well. they could have done much better than that for an installation sheet in my opinion. if you started with the parts screwed into the turnbuckle two threads as instructed and at stud bind you haven't achieved 1 3/4" of coil then i would say they sent you the wrong kit. good luck.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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I don't use a spring. I just use a $4 hook and lock it down. The spring gives a false sense of security and they rarely work as stated. Just my personal experience.

Dave
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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those directions are the ones they sent me. my question is the spring before you install it is 2" and when you have it on the truck and the thing is tighten almost all the way it is not 1 3/4" long, its the right kit but it dosent with the install. "fishin2deep4u" so you have your wastegate closed off and it wont allow it to open at all?
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by REDNECK-WELDING
"fishin2deep4u" so you have your wastegate closed off and it wont allow it to open at all?

Long, long ago in a galaxy far away.....

I haven't run an HY since probably around '03. Been twins for a long time now.

But we get customers in with these chargers in all the time. And yes, I did just lock out the wastegate on my old turbo. However, you will still need to watch boost.

I have made up a bar-b-que tool for some guys so they can adjust boost. There isn't really any demand to pay for my labor to build them so I haven't.

Dave
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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From: SLC, Ut. 4,200 ft.
Fishin2, what did your boost get up too with it cranked shut?
Redneck, Have you tried tightening it and measuring just the coil part of the spring? seeif that'll hit the 1 3/4 mark were lookin for?
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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well the hook broke today.. grrr. it didnt even have all the threads in and it brke on the hook end. so im going to have to go find a piece to fit it. the easiest want to figure it out i think is there is a jam nut on the one end. screw it down all the way, then take the bigger nut and screw it down till it bottoms out, bring the jam nut upto it and then back off one turn, then set it up as the directions say, then atleast you will know where to tighten it up to. Also does anyone know if it matters if you have the hook on the top or bottom of the wastegate rod
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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i found this on another site about the problem he had:

I recently obtained this little device manufactured by Bully Dog that allows you to squeak out a few more pounds of boost from the peanut-whistle HY35. The device comes with instructions on how to install and adjust. Well...I first noted the install for the bracket under the two 10mm hex nuts behind the waste gate actuator instructs you to place the drilled hole at the top and the slotted guide at the bottom. This configuration will cause the j-hook and spring to cross over the top of the actuator-rod in a very awkward fashion. I noted the bracket hole alignment to be poor as it would not slip onto the studs once the 10mm hex heads were removed. I fixed this by drilling out the single hole at the top. It then slipped onto the mount studs correctly. I found by turning the bracket upside down (contrary to the instructions) the assembly than paralleled the actuator rod correctly and allowed the j-hook and spring to attache to the waste gate lever in a graceful manor. Now, once this was done, I found the miniature turn-buckle adjustment mechanism was also a problem. The instructions explain that once mounted you adjust this turn-buckle and place preload on the small spring. It states that you are to "stretch" the spring to a total length of 1 and 3/4 inches during this initial adjustment. Well....you can't do it because the threaded J-hook and the rear spring holder rod bottom out in the hex-turning sleeve. Well...back to the shop, and out with the Dremmel-Tool to cut off about four threads on each end of the small respective rods. Once this was done I had the "through adjustment" to set spring tension and attempt to stretch the spring to the instructed spec's. The spring is only 1" in the relaxed state so this miniature adjustment will only allow about 3/4" of total preload stretch. I'm assuming that's enough as no one should exceed 28 Lbs of boost from the HY35. It is after all just a quick little peanut whistle for bottom end performance.

Unless I'm totally wrong about my experience with this device, I am surprised that the Instructions are so very incorrect and the overall machining of the assembly is certainly poor in every aspect. My mounting position change of the bracket assembly will allow for easy adjustment, unlike the Instuctions suggested method that will make fine-tuning of the preload a real PIA. The small incremental touch-up adjustment should allow for spot-on settings of 25 to 28 pounds of boost but,... wow... I didn't know I was going to have to do all of this just to get this little device to operate.

It is a clean little assembly and beats the "hay-seed" method of a turn-buckle with spring but...****!



***now my question is it better to have the screws bottom out on each other and leave the set up like that or cut them down and have the spring at lenth they want?
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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I just adjusted mine till I hit 30 psi on WOT.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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how did you adjust it? what where you hitting before without it
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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I just tighten the nut if I remember correctly. I was only hitting like 17psi without the jhook, stock. The 22-24psi after, then i installed my comp and hit hit 28psi. Little adjustment and now its set at 30psi @ WOT.
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