Intake temps?
Intake temps?
Just wondering what intake temp range the 2nd gen ,12vers , operate best at. I am moving my nitrous to the elbow right off the turbo and I will have an extra port to use in the horn. The reason I ask is 2 fold: 1. I dont know what temp range gauge to get and 2. Id like to try and tune it correctly after installation.
Kinda hoping HOHN pipes in here somewhere.
Kinda hoping HOHN pipes in here somewhere.
Any CTD will operate at peak BSFC in the 60-90*F intake air (post-CAC) temperature range. The CACs are very good for delivering low differentials - usually no more than 25*F under hard fueling, although sustained WOT will bring a measure of heat soak into play; of course, airflow due to road speed mitigates much of that!
I recommend a Type K thermocouple pyrometer if you want true real-time data acquisition, which is helpful if you want to see how dynamic fueling affects the compressor's map.
Personally, I think you'd have more benefit from a pre-CAC temp sensor, as it will have even less hysteresis than one in the airhorn (where the CAC has a dampening effect on the differential).
In any case, the airhorn needs a temp range maxed at 150*F, and pre-CAC needs the range maxed at a min 350*F (assuming you're not concerned with the bottom end).
Either way, a more expensive (though not necessarily
) pyrometer will work better in any location...
I recommend a Type K thermocouple pyrometer if you want true real-time data acquisition, which is helpful if you want to see how dynamic fueling affects the compressor's map.
Personally, I think you'd have more benefit from a pre-CAC temp sensor, as it will have even less hysteresis than one in the airhorn (where the CAC has a dampening effect on the differential).
In any case, the airhorn needs a temp range maxed at 150*F, and pre-CAC needs the range maxed at a min 350*F (assuming you're not concerned with the bottom end).
Either way, a more expensive (though not necessarily
) pyrometer will work better in any location...
Woulnt it just freeze the thermocouple if I monitor pre-CAC (while spraying)? What gauge will read the low temps I am going to be seing (350 and less)?
BTW thanks for the input!!
BTW thanks for the input!!
In hot slow traffic, my stock intake air temp sensor will read as high as 150* and usually reads 40* higher than outside air temp when cruising 40-50 mph and about 35* higher on the highway. I know that everyone says the stock one is a joke but I believe that it gives a better read on actual temp of air going through the head.
In hot slow traffic, my stock intake air temp sensor will read as high as 150* and usually reads 40* higher than outside air temp when cruising 40-50 mph and about 35* higher on the highway. I know that everyone says the stock one is a joke but I believe that it gives a better read on actual temp of air going through the head.
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I would guess it gives voltage output based on temp, I wonder if you could buy an overhead readout from a wrecked 98.5 or newer truck and tap into those wires and get readouts. I'm sure a voltage multimeter would work but then calibrating it to F would be a pain. My info comes from my edge juice attitude display. It is interesting to note that temp drops slightly going from 2 psi to 4-6 psi. I think due to added flow thus less head soak from intake manifold and head.
I have thought about putting a remote control thermometer in my intake tract, you know, one of those cheap 10 dollar walmart ones, and then put the display in the cab. I was just worried that it would have a huge delay in that rapid changing environment.
I think I am going to talk to the folks at Cyberdyne or Dakota Digital and see what they have for temp sensors and gauges. The digital would probably be best for rapid temp changes.
BTW- What does the intake temp sensor do on a 12ver?
BTW- What does the intake temp sensor do on a 12ver?
Off subject but heck I started this thread, How do you like that Valair clutch? How much hp/tq you throwing at it? I have been talking to Dan a lot lately cuz I keep killing Southbend FE clutches.
Are you guys confusing the OAT with the IAT?
First should be behind the grill, probably next to the CAC, the second is in the intake ducting before the compressor...
Whether the NO2 freezes the air or not (it won't
) doesn't matter - you want to know what temp the air is being sprayed down to.
First should be behind the grill, probably next to the CAC, the second is in the intake ducting before the compressor...
Whether the NO2 freezes the air or not (it won't
) doesn't matter - you want to know what temp the air is being sprayed down to.


