Installing an EGT Gauge in the '02, is the best place to drill & tap the exhaust elbow after the turbo, or is there someplace better in front of the turbo?? Thanks Rollin

 

You'll want to drill and tap the exhaust manifold. See pics in my gallery for "proper" location.

Make sure not to tap the threads too deeply...


EDIT: added pic..




Justin

 

I drilled mine with the engine running to blow the cuttings out of the hole. A greased tap minimizes the amount of tapping chips. I went in 2 turns so only the probe sticks out inside the port and not the fitting.

 

I've been reading alot of write-ups on this topic. From what I've gathered it's easy if you drill the manifold with a 21/64" bit with grease on it and a shop vac for peace of mind. Then tap it with grease on it while wiping it off every turn or two. Then use a little magnet to stick in the hole and get all the shavings out. Tap it a couple of threads and then try the probe and repeat this until you get it where you want. Dont go too far with the tap or else the probe my not tighten. Finally, start the motor without the probe in to get the rest of the chips out. I figure if you do it this way the turbo wont get hurt because it will just be getting started(Spinning). I plan on doing mine some time this week.

Im thinking about trying a coat hanger to stick in the hole with a magnet stuck to it on the outside of the manifold, anyone think this will work?

Has anyone ever had a turbo crap-out due to a probe install?????

 

Forgot to ask, what should max EGT be? The only mod is an Edge EZ. Thanks

 

About 1100* WOT unloaded for a short distance is what mine used to do. Pulling weight is another matter entire...I don't pull any weight yet, somebody else pipe in.

 

1400 is where you should start being concerned, you should be ok with an EZ, you shouldnt get too hot unless towing heavy and even at 1400 you just dont want to maintain that temp for long periods of time, if you pull a hill and hit 1400 you are ok, if you pull a hill at 1400+ for a matter of miles, that is not good. i hit 1600 at the dragstrip and sometimes even 1700 on the road but its only for short periods of time.

 

like hohn said....why not just do it with the engine running and you dont have to worry about the shavings.

 

will it matter if i screw the fitting in all the way?

when i did mine, i didnt know you could just barely screw the fitting in. when i tried to screw it in, it was WAY too tight every time. i ended up having to run the tap all the way in just to bet the fitting to go in. it is in good an tight but is almost screwed all the way in.

 

If you have a pair of dial calipers(using the end for measuring depth), or almost anything to gauge the thickness of the manifold after you drill the hole, you can then put an indicator mark on the fitting (I used a Sharpie). As you tap the hole, periodically attempt to screw the fitting in and check it's depth against the indicator mark you put on it. You can then have a little more confidence in how far to tap the hole and how deep the fitting will be. I had to tap threads the full depth of the hole. This is because it's pipe threads...they're conical in shape. The end of my tap was thinner than the fitting, so, I had to tap down to the point where the diameter of the tapper of the tap matched the diameter of the fitting.

 

So if you drill it with the engine running none of the fillings will make it to the turbo?

 

In theory that sound sound BUT I think I will remove parts to drill and tap the hole, my boy wont let me do it any other way after seeing the damage to a turbo at the muffler shop he worked at from a small chip going ito the turbo. But there are many who have had good luck with this tricks Ed ke6bnl

 

Installed 2wks ago. If you don't want to do it with the motor running..Remove 3 nuts holding the turbo and loosen the bottom difficult one enough to slide some cardboard inbetween the turbo and exhaust. Use all the other ideas as listed above to keep any metal from flying all over. Clean up w/a magnet and then start w/the cardboard still in place and let idle for 5-10seconds which should blow any metal out of the exhaust manifold then bolt back up and check for leaks. Not my idea but found it here from someone else and it worked well plus you don't have to worry about the hot motor.

 

I only had the engine running when I "broke through" the manifold. I did all the drilling up until that with the cold engine off.

After that, I gooped the tap up heavily with the stickiest axle grease I could find and slowly tapped threads.

Worked well-- no problems 40k+ later.

 

Stick a pen magnet in the hole after tapping and wiggle it every which way.

Jim