And I am in serious need of a different turbo. I can't clear up the smoke what so ever. And both the boost and pyro can be buried at will while cruising down the highway. That's not a good thing, I have a 50 psi gauge, stock head gasket and bolts. I installed the plate full forward, and I really don't want to slide it back, the power is amazing. I had wanted to jump to a 66 mm charger, but think I will be happy with something that clears up the smoke. I can roll coal for blocks on end, and it only slightly clears as the boost approaches 40 psi. Looks like in the market for a 64 mm charger, as I was told a B-1 is a 62mm.

Also, found that my BHAF was allowing dirt in still, and had slightly scuffed the intake tube and housing. The shop just happened to have an AFE Stage 2 Pro Dry S intake, for a 2nd Gen, laying there, still in the box. My buddy told me 300 by Friday, it's yours. So now the truck has a new intake too.

 

Why not slide it back? Full forward is not usually the optimum position. You might find a position with the same power and much less smoke.

 

Do you have a GSK in that truck?
I run a HTT 62/14, DDP4s, 0 plate full forward, 4kgsk, 18* timing, stage 2 ported and polished head.
I cant completely clear up the fuel, but it is only a light haze at WOT.
But, if I want to roll coal I can do that also.

I know of some guys who had VERY good luck with an Industrial Injection SPS62 with DDP4s. They were able to clear the smoke.

You need to oring and stud that thing. The upped timing really helps in the EGT issue.

 

You have the bigger 215 pump than i do, but I run a 100 plate 3/4 forward with my DDP2s in my dually and I can keep mine clean,, I have my boost set to around 35 pounds max. IT has all the power i need with it there. I do run a Valet Switch when i am towing as it does get a lil warm on long hills,, but other than that its good. I had mine at full forward at first and to me the 3/4 forward has more power and better drivability there.

 

Got to work this morning, pulled it in and slid the plate back just a tiny bit, just tapped it with a screwdriver blade. Took it out for a spin, it now clears almost all the smoke. I can still get pretty toasty, and the boost rockets up to 50. This thing is supposed to be gated at 42, and I've checked it with a regulated source, it would move at about 43. As far as I remember, it has just an elbow, no screw was in there for adjustment.

This truck does not have a GSK, it's still stock springs. It will free rev to 3400, and now pulls to about 3100 before falling off. A P&P'd head, HD valve springs, 4k gsk, studs and o-rings are in the works, I need to gain some funds back for them.

All in all I'm very happy with the truck at this point, it is extremely fun to drive. I just need to fine tune it, get some airflow improvements, and it will be set.

 

Yeah, the 4k gsk sure does help out in the EGT department.
Check out puredieselpower.com. Garrett has some great prices on his cylinder heads and all the works.

 

I know, that's where all my parts have come from so far. When the time comes, he will the be the first one I contact.

 

I just got a fully loaded head from him and the price was the best around. Scheid and PDR wanted about double the price for a stage 2 Ported & Polished head. I also got the 5 angle valve job, backcut valves, 60# springs and o-rings.
Oh yeah, it was a NEW head from him.

 

watch revvin past 3200 with the stock valve springs. you'd be askin for trouble free revvin to 3400. the power band you get with a gsk is amazing, i would have done that before injectors but hey, they all make power!

 

Yes indeed, new head castings fully worked over through him beat anyone elses pricing on used heads with the same stuff done.

BigErks, I hear you on revving past 3200. It stops pulling at about 3100, but I usually shift a little sooner than that. And when I free rev it, it gets bounced up there and falls right back down, I don't hold it there. I was looking into the GSK, and will definately get one. I want to do the worked over head, GSK and increased the timing, so I don't have to worry about floating valves or popping gaskets. I just couldn't see doing a GSK and 60 lb springs, then tearing the head off in a couple months to get it done. The sticks and plate make power, just not as large of a powerband. Either way, it's a blast to drive. And I definately can't wait to get my 95 and get everything installed on that.

 

I would say wait with the valve springs, did mine on the truck ad it was a, well lets say some tools got air born that day. wait till the head is off trust me your head gasket is not to happy right now. don't worry thought my ain't that happy also. Get the head from garret, I'm saving up for mine.

 

Yup, those little keepers can be a big pain when they go flying and hide! Feels like defusing a bomb. haha

 

Not the first time I've heard it described like that lol. Kinda why I'm looking forward to having a complete head to just bolt on.

The head is #1 priority on this truck, however, if my tranny in the 95 goes, that's #1 and this truck will be put aside. I love having the two trucks, just wish I had the money to do both at the same time.

 

So Joker are you saying don't do the valve springs with the head on? I was thinking of doing both the 4k gsk and the valve springs soon but maybe I will wait on the springs? How easy is it to hurt something with the 4k gsk installed??

 

you can put the m on while in the truck, Im just saying it is a pain. need alot of patiants, but can and has been done tons of times. If i ever do the springs again that stupied inslation under the crowl is getting ripped out asap, the fibers will get in to your hands an itch/burn for the next day or so. I would put the springs in with the 4gsk, if you are doing the head soon i would wait thought. Personal reving the truck to 4k just gets them hotter, and i think it is more for sled pullers then anyone. BUt that is coming from some one that has 5k springs in his truck.