Today is my first day on this forum. I've been reading so much that my eye's are hurting now. I hear of free power mods for the 12 valve, what are they? How do you do it? Also want can I do to get more power? I'm not real familar with deisel motors and don't understand some of the slang on here that is spoken from the people who understand whats going on. I have a couple off friends that have deisel trucks with programmers and such but i'm unable to find this stuff in catalogs, is there so other way that all this power is made? Thanks Ken

 

First thing is first, you need a signiture so we can tell what your truck is. This will tell us what kind of things you can do, if its a 12valve there will be no programmer just good old fashioned power! Have fun!

 

It's a 98 with 12 valves. I bought this this truck to pull my race car around and to use for going to the dump and stuff like that. I want it to have plenty of power to pull stuff and to shock a few people on the street but nothing to wild so that i'm replacing or fixing stuff every weekend like my car.

 

I think this thread has most the info... If your not familiar with a certain mod, do a quick search for that particular mod and there should be a good thread about it. I've been searching like crazy lately to..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=free+12v+mods

 

If you got an automatic tranny you're gonna have to shell out $2000 to $4000 for a tranny and tc that can handle any more power then stock. If you got a manual you'll need to beef up the clutch and tranny too.

 

Alot of useful info. just one problem I don't understand alot of the abbreviations used to describe stuff. Like "KDP" and "AFC", what does this stand for? Also I found this:
1)fuel plate grinding/ sliding
2)Star wheel
3)GSK
4)Pinching the wastegate line
5)silencer ring


1. I think I understand this but don't know where its located.
2. What is it,what does it do and where is at.
3. I got this one (believe it or not)just don't know where it is at.
4. couldn't you just cut it and clamp a bolt on the end? Or are you just trying to slow down vaccum.
5. Once again what is it,what does it do and where is at.


I know I must look stupid asking all these question but when I search I feel like i'm reading a foreign language because this all new to me.

 

theres alot of knowlegable guys here who will definently help out. I really don't know much more than you (I just joined here), but I can tell you the KDP is the "killer dowel pin", which is a pin that has a tendency to fall into the front gear case and can cause all sorts of internal damage...UNLESS you buy the KBP tab kit for like 40 bucks, and that tab secures the pin so it can't fall into the gears so u can sleep at night, lol. It's definently somthing that should be priority before you do any mods, unless it's already been done. Search KDP and you can find a link to pictures of how to install the tab and everything.

i'll try to find threads for each of the other mods that explain what to do.

 

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58

 

after searching, here's what you need.. all of this is quoted from member 'displacedtexan'

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate. I personally prefer a 100.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

-quoted from 'displacedtexan'

 

a pyro gauge is for exhaust temp

 

Thanks for posting that box.

Here is a link with some pics and diagrams- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58

TST sells the KDP kit.

The silencer ring is in the front of the turbo, where the air intake connects, all it does is quiet the turbo down some, mine is out, but removing it nets no power gains.

Let me know if you guys have nay more questions, I'll be happy to help.

 

Thanks , I'll be quick to ask too. I kinda want this truck to act like my car but be reliable. But it looks like some transmission work is in the future.

 

if you want some good power for acceleration, you should go get a quote from a local shop for how much they'll charge to beef up ur trans. Then save however much money u need for that, but in the meantime pump ur engine up to a safe level so you have some extra power until you know u can afford to get ur trans to handle alot of power. If ur comfortable with it, take the trans to them so that saves alot of labor cost's.

 

My truck is similar to yours , and the mods done have made it a differant truck. I tow a 10m lb. trailer and it is so much better than stock!!
Gauges first , and you will have to build the tranny , I know from experience.
The truck will be much more fun to drive. The sound alone makes it worth it.
Good luck.

 

smokeum99ta I just grinded down my fuel plate to a # 10, you WILL NOT believe the power you will get from this. I was as stock as it can be, I just added a 4" complete exhaust ($ 275.00 shipped on Ebay), I has a Westach boost+pyro gauge, and 4 days ago I grounded the plate.

Well, my first 2 gears are useless, then 3rd nails you to the seat, 4th too, and 5th gear spins tires on gravel if I give it full trottle, and I mean I leave tire marks and rearend moves sideways at 55mph in 5th gear !!!!

As you can see the free upgrade is there, you will have to spend some money to help not blow up or damage the motor.

Go for it, you will have a grin on your face everytime you drive your truck