Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

hx35 on ford 7.3 i.d.i.

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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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banks twinram's Avatar
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From: corpus christi texas
hx35 on ford 7.3 i.d.i.

it may not be on a dodge, or a cummins, but it came off a cummins and figured ya'll could help with my problem. i have just finished the installation of a hx35-12cm wastegated housing on my ford i.d.i. the problem is that it blows black oil out of the exhaust and into the intake. i was wondering if there was a special orfice that goes in the oil line before the turbo to prevent oil from blowing out of the exhaust-intake. where is the orfice on a cummins motor (if there is one) or how do i prevent this from happening. it is ready to roll excpet for that part, i could run it like that, but it probably burns a quart in a couple minutes or so. and the return line is free flowing. any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 09:30 PM
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Are you sure your oil drain on your turbo is not plugged if not it sound like you got a bad turbo there is no orfice that I know off.
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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well, it is running out of the drain pretty good. the turbo had been laying in the waether for about 4 years. it was pulled off a running truck. then i took it apart and cleaned it up real good and put it back together. i dunno.
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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sounds like you might have a bad oil seal... you can run an inline restrictor, but you shouldn't NEED one.

Forrest
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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i am going to try putting a needle valve inline and see what that does for itso i can adjust it down to where it stops blowing oil. is there any certain specs on how much oil is supposed to flow through a turbo? like so many quarts per minute or something???. i will let ya'll know what i find out. i hope i don't dust the turbo with too little oil going to it. then again, it feels a little on the worn side.... i just don't know what to do. if i dust the turbo, i will go to a set of 6" stacks. thanks for the input
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 10:09 PM
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man, I'd just buy a good used HX35 for $200-250 or put a rebuild kit in that one...

if you're leaking oil into the compressor side, that's a recipe for a runaway!

Forrest
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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oh man?!! i didn't think about that!! get the oil good-n-cookin and flowing right and boom carbureted diesel!!!! if the rpm's don't get it, the pre-ignition will
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 12:10 AM
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well, i took it for a test drive with my restriction valve inline to the turbo, and it still pukes bad, i adjusted it down to like 1/8 a turn on a needle valve type valve and it just pukes and pukes, 1/2 the way around the block and i couldn't see out the windshield any more!!! just barely a trickle coming out of the return hose. is the return line on a cummins turbo big, or is it little? because i always thought it was small, but after looking at a few pictures and such, i think it is like a 3/4"-1" steel tubing that comes off the turbo. i thought it was just a little piece like 3 or 4 inches long and then a steel braid line like 1/4 inch comes off that. i got a 1/4 inch line coming out of it now....
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 12:43 AM
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dude, that's your problem!!! 1/4" line for the return!?? you're building up pressure in the center section and pushing it past the seals...

when oil leaves the center of the turbo it's whipped up and frothy... the bigger your return the better, and you want as straight downhill a shot as you can get... put a 1" or bigger return on there, and you'll be sittin' pretty!

Forrest
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 01:06 AM
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ok , i'll do that!!!3/8 line in, 1/4 line out. somethings gunna give. it's running down the side of the turbo and out the intake side and in the motor and all over my windshield!! lol its a mess, i have to wait on my return line to come in, wannadiesel sent is sending one to me in the mail. i will have to probably cut the line and put a hose on the end of it. i don't really have a straight shot to anywhere, it sits about 8" over top center of the motor. ford v-8. it runs very well when its spooled up, but can still be better with timing and fuel djustments. i need to put guages!!! they are still sitting in my closet! thanks for the input, i guess i got misled because i found a 1/4 inch steel braid line in my "bucket-o-cummins" and thought the top line was braided, so the bottom will be braided too, and it had a goofey fitting on it, so i thought that had to be the line. i guess i am running oil through a fuel line or something. i was looking for a part that was like 3" long that bolted to the turbo with a goofey 1/4" fitting in the end! oops
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 02:49 AM
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yeah, the feed line is braided, but the return is a two bolt flange w/ a ~1" steel tube welded to it... then it goes into rubber hose and connects to another steel tube that's pressed into the engine block.

belive it or not, even though you've pushed all that oil past the seals, there's a good chance that once you resolve the drain issue, it'll all clear up and won't leak without doing anything to the turbo (seen it a few times on home-brew turbo setups)

Forrest
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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i got my drain tube from wannadiesel!! i will have to put it on tonight and tell ya'll how it works out! thanks for all the help, i can't wait!!! yes, it's about 1" and i thought it was just a 1/4 inch line, HUGE DIFFERENCE.i won't even have to cut it off because of the pre-existing bend in it, it will go right over the side of the motor and then i will drill a hole in the oil pan or something, i'll get it figured out!
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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Does he have to drain that back to the oil pan???? drilling seems so harsh, seems a rigging of sorts could be done to something less permanent, like the oil fill cap. Tap that for alarge bit of flexpipe and come off tubo to the fill cap. this way if this turbo ends up not being what you need ya get a 12 dollar cap and your all new and ready to try again
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 10:30 AM
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can't go to the oil fill cap... it must be a gravity feed w/ as little restriction as possible...

use a punch to put a hole in the pan, and keep punching it larger and larger and then use a greased tap to thread it, and put an NPT fitting in there...

or you can punch the hole and weld the tube to the pan.

guys do this stuff all the time when they add a turbo/turbos or supercharger to their cars

Forrest
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 06:28 PM
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ok, i am learning a lot about turbo's and stuff here, thanks for all you'r support. i am now making 15 psi boost and 12-1300 on the pyro. **** it runs good. but it tends to slip the clutch with anything over 12 psi boost, the motor can handle 15 psi pretty good, but the clutch is the deciding factor. i cranked the fuel up 4 flats today, thats 2/3 a turn!! wow it smokes a lot till it starts boosting, and i don't know why, may be due to exhaust leaks, but it doesn't start to spool up untill about 2500 rpm, then it's ON LIKE DONKEY KONG . then the clutch starts slipping, i can slip the clutch at 80 mph when the motor is running 3,000 rpm's or so. the highest i have got the pyro is 1300. the slow spooling may also be due to the 7.3 v-8 uses up too much air versus what the turbo compressor can make at low rpm's, i don't know what is wrong. doesn't seem to have too big a exhaust housing, i guess i need like a hybrid 35-40 or something. i wish i knew how much power that motor is making. the clutch is in good shape too, it just slips.
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