I did a search but didn't find anything. How do you go about changing injectors? Is it simple? Can some one explain how to do it or tell me where I can find this info at. How long does it take? What tools are needed?

 

I did a write up on it when I did mine I will pm it to you if you want. Also here is another one I found. Its a simple job, I have done 3 times and it only takes about 2 hours and I changed nozzles.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...51-1075943.pdf

 

Here is instructions with a bit more detail. I find it easier to remove the fuel lines completely (2 set of three each). Takes a bit longer but much easier to prevent mistakes... especially the first time. Also allows for removal and inspection of conecting tubes.
2 Hours is about right for first time... taking is slowly. No special tools required. Metric wrenches (incl a 19mm) make it nice.

One thing I don't care for in BD's instructions is tightening the injector hold downs first. Better, IMO, to seat the connecting tubes and connect the fuel lines first and tighten 'hold downs' after.

Dillon - ASAP possible, get a Service Manual. Worth every penny and better instructions/pics than anywhere else.
http://www.citydiesel.net/newsdesk_i...&newsdesk_id=8

RJ

 

I never read BD's instructions I just found them and saved them to my computer for reference. I also tighten the fuel lines to the tubes before I tighten down the injectors. I read through those and they do look better.

 

I would like your write up as well please

 

What brand or which one is the best and would a auto parts store have one?

 

When I did my injector swap, I had one of the injectors in slightly twisted. The connector tube still snapped (for lack of a better term) in, but couldn't get the injector hold down on because of the rotation. The clearances on the injector body to the hold down are quite close, so the keeper will set the orientation correctly. I wouldn't expect the connector tube to right it, it took a good twist to turn it. That was with new o-rings, old o-rings might turn easier.

 

Totally agree! I install the 'hold down' and bolt but don't go full tight.
Was just suggesting the full tightening should be after the connecting tube and injector lines are tight.
I believe this is how the FSM says to do it.... but will recheck.

Edit:7:40: Opps! My mistake! Thanks 'Tate'....

"(7) Position fuel injector hold down clamp into
shouldered bolt while aligning slot in top of injector
into groove in bottom of clamp. Tighten opposite
clamp bolt (Fig. 18) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque."
This is followed by connecting tube install, then fuel lines! Faulty memory... that's why I own a service manual.

RJ

 

I am not telling anyone what to do just my opinion

I have never removed the grid heater and intake manifold

One thing I done that I think helps the most is cut a section of that dang dirt trap of a firewall blanket/insulation out before you even start I just used scissors and cut app. 18" or so behind the valve cover

Also this is a good time to run your valves

 

Cstroup, how did you get the #2 and #3 injector out with the heat grid and air horn still on? I can see you doing that on a 12v engine, but a 24v the injector are right next to the heater grid/air horn. You could loosen the connector nuts enough a little at a time, but that time consuming

I just loosen connector nuts 3/4 of the way, just enough the so you can wiggle out the injectors. 24v are easy. The back two injectors can be buggers. My copper washer fall off the tips into the injector hole. I put some grease on the nozzle tip to keep the washer on the injector. The injector retainer can slide out between the rockers. You will also need to remove a few bolts on the intake manifold so the injector lines are free to move. The worst parts is getting the engine to fire back up. You have to re-prime the injection pump. I keep two to three connector tubes loose. Crank the motor until you see fuel. Stop cranking, tighten up the tube where fuel is coming out. Crank again, tighten that connector tube. Crank until it fires, go back and tighten up all the connector nuts. Crank until it runs.

I just ripped my dirt blanket out on my truck, its always dumping trash into the valve train. If you live in Calgary, I would give you a hand.

 

You can download the Dodge service manual at pdftown.com. It really helped me when I changed mine. I had to remove the intake elbow and the grid heater to get the #2 fuel line nut far enough out of the way, and a valve cover bolt and vice grips worked well to get the injectors out. I did mine yesterday, to give my stock bodies to a buddy so he can build my 150's. He lent me a set of stockers to put back in until he gets them built, which should be this weekend, which means I have to do the whole thing all over again this week But can't complain too much mo fuel is mo better

 

If you know when you are going to install them, let me know and if Im available i might could help. I live in stephenville and would be willing to supervise and give you tips. Ive only changed 4 or 5 sets but I still know a few tips. Oh and I might have something you would want to borrow... a 19mm end wrench that has been cut in half in order to get to #6 injector line easier.