How to install injectors?
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
From: Arcadia, WI
DB:
Short version - get a Haynes manual $15. All instructions and torque values.
Long version - too long, can't remember. No promise on complete accurracy but this is what I remember (just did it Sunday night).
Get everything very clean. Have new copper washers for injectors and return line.
Remove the air intake horn. 10 mm bolts and 11 mm on the boots. Remove fuel lines between injectors and fuel pump. 19mm wrench on both ends. You will have to remove the 8 mm hold down screws attaching the fuel lines to the air intake cover. Cap injectors and pump to keep crude out. Remove fuel return line 10 mm on injector, 10 mm on air intake cover and 12 mm on top of fuel filter canister.
Injector hold down nut is 15/16. Here is where it can be easy or more work. The injectors may be stuck in the head and need to be pulled. Sometimes you can wiggle them out (they will not turn as there is an indexing ball so don't try and wrench them out). You can take one hold down nut and stack it on top of the injector you want to remove. Then take a wheel lug nut and thread it onto the injector and use it as a puller. Yes, it works. Some guys will cut a small length of pipe and do the same thing. Remove all injectors.
Clean out the head real well, then clean it some more. Use a mirror to see back into #5 & 6. Blow it out or use a vacuum. A small round wire bristle brush will help.
Use some antiseize on the body of the injector and hold down nut. Reinstall. Torque to 44 ft/lb. Reinstall the fuel return line and 10 mm bango bolts. GNT torque value. Then, the fuel lines. Snug up the 19 mm connectors. Reattach the air intake 216 INCH/lbs on the 10 mm bolts. Snug up the boot clamps.
You may have to crank it over a few times before it fires or possibly lossen a few fuel lines but I never have.
Then go for ride and enjoy the new sticks. Oh yeah, go back and put on the lug nut you lug nut!
Short version - get a Haynes manual $15. All instructions and torque values.
Long version - too long, can't remember. No promise on complete accurracy but this is what I remember (just did it Sunday night).
Get everything very clean. Have new copper washers for injectors and return line.
Remove the air intake horn. 10 mm bolts and 11 mm on the boots. Remove fuel lines between injectors and fuel pump. 19mm wrench on both ends. You will have to remove the 8 mm hold down screws attaching the fuel lines to the air intake cover. Cap injectors and pump to keep crude out. Remove fuel return line 10 mm on injector, 10 mm on air intake cover and 12 mm on top of fuel filter canister.
Injector hold down nut is 15/16. Here is where it can be easy or more work. The injectors may be stuck in the head and need to be pulled. Sometimes you can wiggle them out (they will not turn as there is an indexing ball so don't try and wrench them out). You can take one hold down nut and stack it on top of the injector you want to remove. Then take a wheel lug nut and thread it onto the injector and use it as a puller. Yes, it works. Some guys will cut a small length of pipe and do the same thing. Remove all injectors.
Clean out the head real well, then clean it some more. Use a mirror to see back into #5 & 6. Blow it out or use a vacuum. A small round wire bristle brush will help.
Use some antiseize on the body of the injector and hold down nut. Reinstall. Torque to 44 ft/lb. Reinstall the fuel return line and 10 mm bango bolts. GNT torque value. Then, the fuel lines. Snug up the 19 mm connectors. Reattach the air intake 216 INCH/lbs on the 10 mm bolts. Snug up the boot clamps.
You may have to crank it over a few times before it fires or possibly lossen a few fuel lines but I never have.
Then go for ride and enjoy the new sticks. Oh yeah, go back and put on the lug nut you lug nut!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 0
From: Youngstown, OH
DB:
Short version - get a Haynes manual $15. All instructions and torque values.
Long version - too long, can't remember. No promise on complete accurracy but this is what I remember (just did it Sunday night).
Get everything very clean. Have new copper washers for injectors and return line.
Remove the air intake horn. 10 mm bolts and 11 mm on the boots. Remove fuel lines between injectors and fuel pump. 19mm wrench on both ends. You will have to remove the 8 mm hold down screws attaching the fuel lines to the air intake cover. Cap injectors and pump to keep crude out. Remove fuel return line 10 mm on injector, 10 mm on air intake cover and 12 mm on top of fuel filter canister.
Injector hold down nut is 15/16. Here is where it can be easy or more work. The injectors may be stuck in the head and need to be pulled. Sometimes you can wiggle them out (they will not turn as there is an indexing ball so don't try and wrench them out). You can take one hold down nut and stack it on top of the injector you want to remove. Then take a wheel lug nut and thread it onto the injector and use it as a puller. Yes, it works. Some guys will cut a small length of pipe and do the same thing. Remove all injectors.
Clean out the head real well, then clean it some more. Use a mirror to see back into #5 & 6. Blow it out or use a vacuum. A small round wire bristle brush will help.
Use some antiseize on the body of the injector and hold down nut. Reinstall. Torque to 44 ft/lb. Reinstall the fuel return line and 10 mm bango bolts. GNT torque value. Then, the fuel lines. Snug up the 19 mm connectors. Reattach the air intake 216 INCH/lbs on the 10 mm bolts. Snug up the boot clamps.
You may have to crank it over a few times before it fires or possibly lossen a few fuel lines but I never have.
Then go for ride and enjoy the new sticks. Oh yeah, go back and put on the lug nut you lug nut!
Short version - get a Haynes manual $15. All instructions and torque values.
Long version - too long, can't remember. No promise on complete accurracy but this is what I remember (just did it Sunday night).
Get everything very clean. Have new copper washers for injectors and return line.
Remove the air intake horn. 10 mm bolts and 11 mm on the boots. Remove fuel lines between injectors and fuel pump. 19mm wrench on both ends. You will have to remove the 8 mm hold down screws attaching the fuel lines to the air intake cover. Cap injectors and pump to keep crude out. Remove fuel return line 10 mm on injector, 10 mm on air intake cover and 12 mm on top of fuel filter canister.
Injector hold down nut is 15/16. Here is where it can be easy or more work. The injectors may be stuck in the head and need to be pulled. Sometimes you can wiggle them out (they will not turn as there is an indexing ball so don't try and wrench them out). You can take one hold down nut and stack it on top of the injector you want to remove. Then take a wheel lug nut and thread it onto the injector and use it as a puller. Yes, it works. Some guys will cut a small length of pipe and do the same thing. Remove all injectors.
Clean out the head real well, then clean it some more. Use a mirror to see back into #5 & 6. Blow it out or use a vacuum. A small round wire bristle brush will help.
Use some antiseize on the body of the injector and hold down nut. Reinstall. Torque to 44 ft/lb. Reinstall the fuel return line and 10 mm bango bolts. GNT torque value. Then, the fuel lines. Snug up the 19 mm connectors. Reattach the air intake 216 INCH/lbs on the 10 mm bolts. Snug up the boot clamps.
You may have to crank it over a few times before it fires or possibly lossen a few fuel lines but I never have.
Then go for ride and enjoy the new sticks. Oh yeah, go back and put on the lug nut you lug nut!
Thanks man!
Banned
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham, Wa
Digital bullet-
I recommend doing a 3gsk before looking into any further mods like injectors, dv's etc, that will really heat ur EGT's up. I just installed a gsk kit and it's by far the best mod for driveability and power(feel).
I recommend doing a 3gsk before looking into any further mods like injectors, dv's etc, that will really heat ur EGT's up. I just installed a gsk kit and it's by far the best mod for driveability and power(feel).
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darrenG
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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Jun 21, 2005 10:24 PM