Homemade Cold Air Intake
Homemade Cold Air Intake
I just thought I would share that I made a cold air intake system for my 12 valve by purchasing a E-1796 K&N filter and attaching it to the stock tube. I used a 4 Inch piece of black PVC to attach the tube to and then a 3 Inch Female PVC coupler to attach the filter to. The 3 Inch is glued to the 4 Inch. Then I just took the top of the stock air filter box off and put it inside there. The bottom box protects it from heat/debris/water. It works fine for me, cost about $50 for the filter and maybe $5 for the 3 inch coupler and 4 inch pipe from Home Depot. Works great. I really wish I had done a cold air intake before. I read all the hoopla about the cold air intake and was skeptical. It is a great upgrade to do. I could have certainly purchased an expensive system and MAYBE got a LITTLE better air flow, but no way significant over what I have done for a fraction of the cost. I recommend everyone doing this or buying a cold air intake. They work really well. As far as K&N versus whatever, I have had them in ATVs, cars, trucks, etcetera. No problem for me. I made the same system for my wife's Durango using the same filter. Works great. I did finally put a filter wrap/prefilter on it just for piece of mind and essentially to create a 5 layer filter system. No dust ever found in either intake tubes. Just my input, others feel differently.
The question isn't just flow.....
What temp is the air you are ingesting??? That is where the SAII will buy you about another 100°F in EGT room.
As far as the K&N on those other engines.. They are not turbo charged running up to 800 CFM... Once you add a turbocharger to the mix, the gauze filters tend to let more pass.. JMHO..
Good idea on the system anyhooo.. Good Start..
What temp is the air you are ingesting??? That is where the SAII will buy you about another 100°F in EGT room.
As far as the K&N on those other engines.. They are not turbo charged running up to 800 CFM... Once you add a turbocharger to the mix, the gauze filters tend to let more pass.. JMHO..
Good idea on the system anyhooo.. Good Start..
My simple, cheap cold air intake.
Just hole saw a hole in the firewall, same place as a Scotty and another in the bottom passenger side of a stock airbox. Connect the holes together with 3" RV dump or clothes dryer hose. No need for an airtight connection just slipping the hose into the holes is good enough. Leave the stock fender intake open. This was good enough to drop my hill towing egts by 150°.
Just hole saw a hole in the firewall, same place as a Scotty and another in the bottom passenger side of a stock airbox. Connect the holes together with 3" RV dump or clothes dryer hose. No need for an airtight connection just slipping the hose into the holes is good enough. Leave the stock fender intake open. This was good enough to drop my hill towing egts by 150°.
Originally Posted by infidel
My simple, cheap cold air intake.
Just hole saw a hole in the firewall, same place as a Scotty and another in the bottom passenger side of a stock airbox. Connect the holes together with 3" RV dump or clothes dryer hose. No need for an airtight connection just slipping the hose into the holes is good enough. Leave the stock fender intake open. This was good enough to drop my hill towing egts by 150°.

Just hole saw a hole in the firewall, same place as a Scotty and another in the bottom passenger side of a stock airbox. Connect the holes together with 3" RV dump or clothes dryer hose. No need for an airtight connection just slipping the hose into the holes is good enough. Leave the stock fender intake open. This was good enough to drop my hill towing egts by 150°.
Originally Posted by 2500Ram
That looks like something I would do. Do you have anymore pictures?
Unfortunately it's hard place to get a good picture.
No need to make it complicated, total ingredients are two holes the same outside diameter as your hose and the hose itself. You can only use a maximum hose diameter of three inches, otherwise the hole in the airbox will intrude into the clean air portion of the airbox.
Some people who felt they needed a bigger hose have drilled an oval hole in the airbox then smashed down a large hose to fit and drill a larger hole in the firewall. A 3" hose has worked fine for my air requirements though.
The hose will stay in place due to the spiral wire in the hose.
No need to do anything besides sticking the hose in the holes (as long as you don't drill them too big) I did wrap the firewall side of my hose with electrical tape to prevent the sharp metal edges from cutting it.
SmokinFive, yes it is louder in the cab but just the same as a Scotty.
I use a Turbo Air Guide (TAG) which eliminates the added noise entirely but I went several years without one and can still hear
Big advantage for me living in the frozen north is that I can remove the hose from the firewall in the winter, fold the insulation back to cover the hole then direct the intake end close to the turbo. This increases engine efficiency as ideal intake temp is 50-90F. When it's below 15° my intake temp sucking though the firewall will seldom get above freezing even after driving hundreds of miles. Sucking warm air from the turbo area keeps the intake in the optimum range. Switching back and forth once a year is as simple as moving the hose.
I first did this mod in 2000 and described it at TDR then. Since then many people have contacted me who did it and were very pleased.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ead.php?t=6232
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