I have 98.5 24v with mach 3's,comp,B1-2 and a Carter pusher with Ray's banjo's.My problem is I'm getting hard starts with my fuel pressure so high.At idle it'll hit 30psi at times. I was at the local speed shop and I came across what they call a boost accuated fuel regulater.What it does is regulate your fuel press. at idle from 5 to 20 lbs and when you get your foot into it your fuel pressure will come up with your boost pressure at a 1 to 1 ratio.To me this sound like the perfect setup to regulate fuel pressure at idle with out losing topend pressure.The unit is made by Aeromotive.So I'm just wandering if anyone else has tried this setup and your opinions would be appeciated.Thanks Mark........

 

The Aeromotive regulator is a good piece. I'd recommend you get the Marine regulator which ensures diesel compatibility.

You want to make sure you use a RETURN style regulator. What this does is limits FP by sending back to the tank all the "excess" fuel not required to maintain a given FP.

30 psi is WAY TOO HIGH! You are endangering the seals in the VP, in addition to your hard starts.

IMO, the aeromotive regulators are the best onthe market.

jlh

 

I have been running over 30 psi for over 2 years

 

I have talked to several vp guros and nobody has ever seen a vp blow seals from high fuel pressure, my truck has seen high 20's low thirties for over a yer also. That being said keep it withion reason if your running 40-50 psi I think you are pushing it a wee bit but I wouldn't be worried about 30 psi.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.Greenworks and high country aren't you guys seeing hard starts with that much pressure.Also I run isspro fuel gauge with isolater and it's vibrates to beat hell.Any one know of better fuel gauge maybe liquid filled. Hey Hohn I'll check into the marine ones and ya it does have the return to the tank.What do you think of mounting it after the carter pusher.I know it probaly should go after the stock lift pump but very limited space there.I'd rather have it mounted on frame rail out of sight.Would I be defeating the purpose or what.I'm thinking it's probaly the pusher that's giving me all the pressure anyways.Thanks Mark..........

 

my pusher does not cause hard starts as it does not push fuel till she is running, hard starts are from too much fp before start up

 

Hey high country,don't you have your pusher wired in with your stock lift pump.Thanks Mark.......

 

I run a relay that sense when power engergizes the fp circut and then if oil pressure is up the pusher starts, essentially a modifed BD lift pump kit, the truck only uses the primary lp is the stock location to start reducing the hard start issues

 

Hey Greenworks,do you have any part #'s or wiring diagrams for your setup.Thanks Mark...

 

BD power is the only company that offers the whole kit including pump (carter4601) for about $250 Can, essentially if you could find a pressure switch to install in the engine block to close a contact when pressure is reached to energize the pump it would do the same thing. I have a relay only because I used one before on a pusher pump but had the hard start issue, the relay will probably in all likely hood be removed being you can straight wire the pump with a fuse to the battery being it will only run with oil pressure is there, hecnce no need to go through the ignition.

 

Thanks Greenworks I'll check into a pressure switch.What kind of fuel pressure gauge you using.My mech. isspro sure is rattlin time to change.Wouldn't mind trying liquid filled but can't find much info or who carries one.Thanks mark.......

 

I decided with the x-monitor simply for its low/high memory storage, i can make a long trip with out having to watch the gauge all the time and check the stored memory, the other benefit is that if a value goes over (egt,boost) or under (fp) a desired set range the screen will flash or beep to warn you.

 

I tried using the boost actuator on mine, and it's no good you push any kind of boost over stock. I'm running about 50psi. I put my regulator just before the stock fuel filter. Check my pic's. You don't want it in between the pumps, cause you're kinds defeating the purpose...

 

Mark,
Put a needle valve inline to your gauge and close it down 99%.
My ISSPRO rattled badley for 6 months. Thought I had beat it to death. Needle valve calmed it down and it has functioned very well for last 18 months. Takes next to nothing, flow wise, to get an accurate reading.

If you have it mounted near/at the inj pump...move it as far away as possible - 12-18" works wonders. Gauge picks up the pulses from the pump.

RJ

 

RJ, I've been able to eliminate my need for a needle valve to stop the rattling, and I have the Scotty Fuel setup which takes pressure right at the VP.

I use a Grease Gun hose right at the VP, and another later in the plumbing, like this:

VP fitting--> Grease gun hose--> needle valve-->adapter to -6AN stainless braided line--> another Grease gun hose--> mechanical gauge.

Somehow, the orifice size of the GG hose is enough to dampen the pulsing. I dunno if it would have the same effect if 2 gg hoses were use in a row. I suspect that the expansion into the -6AN line and then the restriction of another GG hose is what causes the pulses to be damped.


This discovery was unintentional, as I went with GG hose to the gauge because I couldn't the get the SS braid to cooperate when I moved my gauges up to the pillar. (they were in a jerry-rigged plywood box before).

I still have the needlevalve plumbed in, but I don't need it. I run it wide open. I leave it in there just in case I get a leak somewhere and need a shutoff.

jh