Ok, i ordered my bd twins yesterday, i have studs ready to go in, now the 100$ what HG do i go with? I've been on here for over 2 hrs reading posts on HG's... For what i know i'll be around 60 psi with the bd towing twins, is a 12 marine gasket and head studs good for this setup, or do i need to have it fire ringed or o ringed? Still trying to figure out the diff there? I have a cometic MLS HG but its .060 thick!! ( I bought from a guy on another site and he didnt metion the thickness..and i didnt ask..sooo!! Ok any info to shed some light on this would be great, i would like to get a HG ordered this weekend, twins will be in next week.. and with what HG to get also where to get it?? Thanks

Capn

 

If your stock head gasket is ok, that is the best gasket!!!!
Why not just retorque the head bolts to 120-125 and be content? If any head bolts feel soft replace that bolt.

 

One more thing, you are not going to get 60 psi boost with rv275 injectors.

 

I think i have a bad HG, i'm using water, and its not leaking anywhere, and with the twins i'm dropping in DDP150's, so from what i've seen on here from ppl running simular i should be close to that?

 

With higher boost pressures, you really need o-rings and studs. Studs alone on a 2nd gen don't usually hold up as well as they do on a 3rd gen with the MLS gasket. I would stay with a stock head gasket, but your setup will depend entirely on the o-ring installer as the setup really does need to be matched according to protrusion. I am no wizard when it comes to heads however; just going by what I was told when I had my headwork done.
mishkaya

 

Don't use the Cometic gasket, you'll be replacing it in a matter of months. 0.060" thickness is the compressed height of a stock gasket, btw.

If you have a place around you, get the head o-ringed and then stud it. May as well do it now while its coming off anyway.

 

thats the problem i'm having, not gettin alot of input for having head work done around here? so what about using this 12v marine gasket with the studs? ive seen alot of post on doing that.. or is that for CR's?? thanks for the info..

 

Just oring it and be done. Then it's only once that you will have to fix it! Then you won't always be worried to push some big boost numbers...

 

whats it usually cost parts and labor to oring a head for a 24v????

Chris

 

Costed me $380.00 up here in Canada at PDR. Probably a bit cheaper down south..

 

Thanks for the info guys, twins should be in this week, so i guess i'll start making some calls tomorrow to see where this head is going...thanks again!
Capn

 

Oring the head and use stock head bolts save the hipe and money of buying studs.