Zeddy

I only use my '99 Dodge 2500 diesel for occasional towing but it's my full time commuting vehicle. I've had to replace the front pads far to often for my taste.

I presume it's mostly due to the drum brakes in the back placing the lion share of the work on the front discs?

Regardless I can't seem to find a brake upgrade kit for my truck. I did switch to ceramic brakes and they have done better but looking for an even better solution, even if it involves new calipers, rotors and pads.

I do see alot of custom rotors out there but there are so many I don't know if it's just fancy cutting or that those vented rotors really do brake better and wear better.

Any help appreciated thx.

dodgeram

www.egrbrakes.com

infidel

Before you go spending big money try this, I guarantee you will be impressed..
As recommended to me by a lifelong brake expert switch your rear brake cylinders to the ones used on GMC 1 tons. They are a perfect fit and the bore is 1/8'' larger than Dodge 3500 cylinders and even more than that compared to the 2500. You won't believe the difference in stopping it makes and your front pads will last longer. Napa number for the larger cylinders is 4637337 about $15 each.

bigern24

another small tip... My front brakes can drag at times which will cause premature wear. I take the caliper pins out every so often and lubricate them so they move freely and allow the pad to come off the disc when the brake is released.

KATOOM

Have you tried adjusting the rears yet? So, I hear they are very prone to not self-adjusting themselves and then arent sharing much of the load. Guys that have adjusted them have noticed a big difference.

Stamey

What Katoom said, about adjusting the rears is one of the best solutions. This is usually done by backing up and hitting the brakes hard, on pavement, but some trucks have sticky adjuster screws and won't adjust that way. If it does, you should feel the pedal catching a little higher after the adjustment. The other is you may need new calipers. I replaced the pads on my truck at about 52K and installed Performance Friction HD pads. They lasted 7K. At that time I learned what I missed on the previous pad change, my right caliper was stuck. The caliper did not release as fully as it should have and wore one side more than the other. I put new/reman lifetime-warranty calipers on from Autozone and Napa Cermix pads on (the Performance Frictions were not available at that time because they were special order) and my brakes have never been better.

Chris

y-knot

Zeddy,
The info give by all the previous posters was valid and will help improve the brakes, but it still does nothing to address the real problem, that being the stock brakes SUCK. I never really had a brake issue, my pads and shoes were both OEM that came with the truck when ordered. I just thought there has to be a better way, so I set out to educate myself and see what was available for the truck. I called many manufacturers and shops, and came to the conclution that better brakes were very much possible, just they were going to cost more then I thought.
I decided to go with Raybestos for the rotors and calipers. I used their Supper Stop Rotors which were Extreem Duty Rated. These rotors are cross drilled and gas slotted, they have internal vains for improved cooling and are beefier the stock. There calipers are just nice re-manufactured units, there isn't much to a caliper, so they were fine. For the pads and shoes, I liked the EGR units, they are a carbon/kevlar composite and well worth the extra money. Also I decided to go with the larger wheel cylinders in the rear, This is a huge differance, and responsible for a much needed boost in rear brake bias. Another item on my "must change list" was the trucks stock rubber brake lines. My truck was a 97' and since I would have replaced them anyway, I went on and got the EGR stainless steel/kevlar lines. You would not think it, but they give a much hadder pedel, and the braking just feels so much more confident with them, this was a good move. To top the project off I went with the teflon lub and synthetic brake fluid from EGR, all very good stuff.
The whole project went smooth and in no time the brakes were no and the air was bleed. The improvement was instentanious, from the first stab at the brake pedle I could tell this was going to be good. They only got better as they seated themselfes in and the finished product was great brakes that will live. I was very supprised, I thought I could improve the brakes, but had no ideal they would work this well, I am very pleased with the results, and think you would be to. Good luck, and let us know what you went with and how they worked out for you.

Steve Roseman

I think I remember reading somewhere that the 3" shoes for a 3500 will work on the 2500's. I didn't know about the GM wheel cylinders, sounds like an inexpensive upgrade. Now to try to get the drums off the rear .

infidel

Easy.

Just jack up both rears remove the wheels, put one lug nut back on each side loosely. Start the engine and slam on the brakes in both forward and reverse.
Guaranteed to remove both drums, if you don't put one nut back on you will be chasing the drum down the street.

If the drums have never been off there may be washer like clips on some of the lug studs, remove them and toss, they are only there to hold the drums on during shipping.

Dr. Evil

Whoa....nice tip Bill....you are the man !!!

Steve Roseman

Thanks Bill! I'll give it a try.

KATOOM

I guess I just have good brakes. Stomp hard and the back might just be the front. Also as for the stock lines being no good, I checked into replacing for braided SS and then found that stock was allready braided SS covered in rubber. So I didnt see the need for spending the money. I have to admit, the larger wheel cylinder sounds like a good cheap improvement and if larger shoes are possible.

Steve Roseman

I've got good brakes too, get about 70k out of the front pads. I think the wheel cylinder and wider shoes would be a good upgrade when regular maintenance is performed on the brakes. The cylinders are cheap and you have to buy shoes anyway.

Zeddy

Thanks everyone for all the help, I've decided to do Y-knot's solution AND the rear GM cylinder tip.

Thanks!

Zedd

1ST CUMNZ

HEY WHAT YEAR OF REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS AND TO THE 1 TON SHOES FIT??????