Yes it is true the headlights have been really sorry for many a year now. On both 2nd and 3rd generation trucks if you hold the high beam lever back and keep it there with your hand, both high and lows are illuminated. This gives reasonably good headlights.

My thought is this. Surely we have some gee wiz electrical guy that can look at the wiring schematics and determine a way that the wiring can be altered, allowing both high and low beam to be on simultaneously without having to manually hold the lever back.

 

I believe it is called the "bright box" and can be had from genosgarage.com.

Perhaps it doesn't work on the 3rd gens, but I don't see why not

Feel free to correct my info if I'm mistaken.

phox

 

The only brite box I could find for our rigs is $250. Here is a link:

http://www.midstatesinc.com/products...uct_make=Dodge

I'd personally rather spend the money on something else like an HID upgrade.

 

[quote author=phox_mulder link=board=17;threadid=21380;start=0#msg200580 date=1066957058]
I believe it is called the "bright box" and can be had from genosgarage.com.

Perhaps it doesn't work on the 3rd gens, but I don't see why not

Feel free to correct my info if I'm mistaken.

phox
[/quote]

Yes, Geno's has the "Bright Box" for the 2003's for $150.
Here's a site that might be of interest, as well:

http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/relays/relays.html

Bob

 

I know the lights are lame, and the design could be better, and in all fairness should have been fixed many years ago. There are things we can do to help out. Many people (including myself) have lights that form water inside (condinsation) and this water on the lens cuts down on the amount of light that hits the road. Also if left unchecked, a water will discolor the reflector, and that cuts down again on the light. What I have found is that it you drill two or three small holes in the front bottom of the light fixture the water problem goes away, and stays away. Then replacing the OEM lamp with an aftermarket high output lamp the lightong is greatly improved. Also proper aiming can reap huge rewards. Our trucks a 9004 lamp, and there are two three high output replacements available, and the cost is not very much. Hope this helps someone.

 

[quote author=mymaur link=board=7;threadid=21380;start=0#msg200531 date=1066953325]
Yes it is true the headlights have been really sorry for many a year now. On both 2nd and 3rd generation trucks if you hold the high beam lever back and keep it there with your hand, both high and lows are illuminated. This gives reasonably good headlights.

My thought is this. Surely we have some gee wiz electrical guy that can look at the wiring schematics and determine a way that the wiring can be altered, allowing both high and low beam to be on simultaneously without having to manually hold the lever back.
[/quote]
mymaur,

After posting a reply to this earlier, I decided to delete it, do the modification and then post:

The attached jpg wiring colors for low-high beam are off of a 2001. It took me almost an hour to hook up tonight. I had to go on a shopping spree at Schucks Auto for a 12 volt relay($4.99) and T-Tapps/inline splices ($2.49). Also there was some scrap pieces of 14 guage wire/connectors used. The next one would only take half the time now that the learning curve has been taught. The T-Tapps on the low and high beam wire where located on the passenger side, just below battery box area. You can follow the routing from the passenger headlight to find the most easily accessible place to install them. The relay was put on the back side of the battery, again for easy accessibility. I almost did this a couple years ago but didn't think it would be worth my time. However, after testing it out while driving around tonight, I do feel it is worth the time and $7.50 I spent.


P.S. When you pull back on the headlamp beam sellector, Dodge calls it the flash position. And it's probably not a safe idea to flash while driving!

y-knot,
As for the higher output bulbs, I have been told that some of them are getting too hot and distorting the lens.

 

You might want to check out this thread I posted some time ago.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...7511#msg127511

 

[quote author=OPIE link=board=7;threadid=21380;start=0#msg212695 date=1069483941]
[quote author=mymaur link=board=7;threadid=21380;start=0#msg200531 date=1066953325]
Yes it is true the headlights have been really sorry for many a year now. On both 2nd and 3rd generation trucks if you hold the high beam lever back and keep it there with your hand, both high and lows are illuminated. This gives reasonably good headlights.

My thought is this. Surely we have some gee wiz electrical guy that can look at the wiring schematics and determine a way that the wiring can be altered, allowing both high and low beam to be on simultaneously without having to manually hold the lever back.
[/quote]
mymaur,

After posting a reply to this earlier, I decided to delete it, do the modification and then post:

The attached jpg wiring colors for low-high beam are off of a 2001. It took me almost an hour to hook up tonight. I had to go on a shopping spree at Schucks Auto for a 12 volt relay($4.99) and T-Tapps/inline splices ($2.49). Also there was some scrap pieces of 14 guage wire/connectors used. The next one would only take half the time now that the learning curve has been taught. The T-Tapps on the low and high beam wire where located on the passenger side, just below battery box area. You can follow the routing from the passenger headlight to find the most easily accessible place to install them. The relay was put on the back side of the battery, again for easy accessibility. I almost did this a couple years ago but didn't think it would be worth my time. However, after testing it out while driving around tonight, I do feel it is worth the time and $7.50 I spent.


P.S. When you pull back on the headlamp beam sellector, Dodge calls it the flash position. And it's probably not a safe idea to flash while driving!

y-knot,
As for the higher output bulbs, I have been told that some of them are getting too hot and distorting the lens.


[/quote]
I am using 100/80W bulbs with both filaments lit on high beam and haven't melted anything yet ;D

 

rattle_rattle,

Your an electrical engineer? It's good that you posted as old threads do get over looked a lot. I didn't do a search, I was just answering a question. As we both know there is more than one way to skin a cat. I did it with the relay as I didn't think the light switch was designed to continously handle that much current and Dodge replacement parts arn't cheap. It's great that you are running higher power'd lights and it's not affecting the lens. And you are running both elements while the hi beams are on with 100/80 bulbs. My comment about heat wasn't from my personal experience, it was from conversations with others.

Looks like there are two options to the question asked earlier. Mine is better! lol :P

 

OPIE,

Will this work on the 98's??

I know they changed the way the switch turned the lights on in 2000.

Any ideas???

Thanks!!!


Chris Rowe
trborowe@mounet.com

 

Chris,

I don't know without seeing a service manual for a 98, which I don't have. I will shoot you an email.

 

[quote author=OPIE link=board=7;threadid=21380;start=0#msg212823 date=1069534763]
rattle_rattle,

Your an electrical engineer? It's good that you posted as old threads do get over looked a lot. I didn't do a search, I was just answering a question. As we both know there is more than one way to skin a cat. I did it with the relay as I didn't think the light switch was designed to continously handle that much current and Dodge replacement parts arn't cheap. It's great that you are running higher power'd lights and it's not affecting the lens. And you are running both elements while the hi beams are on with 100/80 bulbs. My comment about heat wasn't from my personal experience, it was from conversations with others.

Looks like there are two options to the question asked earlier. Mine is better! lol :P
[/quote]
Na-na-nana-na... Yes, yours is better :P I knew I was going to add relays to the lights anyway later on so I wasn't too concerned. Yes, I'm an EE. Yes, I am running both filaments on the 100/80's. I was concerned about the heat, but no problems yet and it's been that way since early spring.

GM

 

[quote author=Chris Rowe link=board=7;threadid=21380;start=0#msg212916 date=1069554297]
OPIE,

Will this work on the 98's??

I know they changed the way the switch turned the lights on in 2000.

Any ideas???

Thanks!!!


Chris Rowe
trborowe@mounet.com

[/quote]

HI chris havent seen or heard from you in a few years!

its been a long time, how have you been?

i just run the 80/100 lights on 80 all the time, and have my walmart fog lights upgraded to the 100watt bulbs to come on with the running lights-
no problems here
BW

 

Well hey Brian!!!

Funny how all the Turbo guys play with the same toys huh??

;D

Everything is fine on my end---just have tooooo much work going on!!!

How have you been??? Been to any good Buick events lately??
Everyone around here has just about quite racing, but I sure have been getting the go-fast bug again here lately!!! I own an LT-1 Vette now and it is nice, but it just doesnt have the shwing like the Buicks!! Might have to build something in the spring!! ;D


Anyway, glad to hear from ya, and keep in touch!!!

 

I've been using the brite box from Geno's for 3 years now on my '01. Took 5 minutes to install. There have been several posts over on the TDR explaining how to build your own using a relay. If I had it all over to do again, I'd build my own. Like other Painless products, the brite box is way over priced.