That is pretty pricey. I guess you cant skimp on that kind of stuff. Need to start saving agian

 

Thanks for all the help

I guess I'll buy a set of ARP studs and change just the studs, it cant be any harder changing the studs then it was changing all the valve springs. I'll feel alot safer with studs at around 50psi then the stock bolts

CRIS

 

Piers told me that studs w/o oringing the head running twins was all right, but runnin a single charger was a no no w/o orings.
carty

 

DeereDiesel

That makes no sense, OK for 70lbs with twins but not OK for 45lbs boost with single. Maybe I'm stupid but how does a o-ring know how many turbos you have?

CRIS

 

Cris,
I asked him the same ques and he said its the difference in the drive pressures of twins vs single charger. im not an expert on drive pressures so I said ok.
carty

 

That does have alot to do with keeping the head on, A twin setup has drive pressures closer to 1to1 then a single. But with boost levels lower then say 60lbs I should be OK. I hope

CRIS

 

Cris,

I agree! The single seems to need the studs less than the twins. I suspect the studs will come on before the Twins!!
It seems the Drive pressure is the amount of pressure being driven. Am I wrong??[ Twins pushing a gross amount]
Somebody, please explain.
Wayne

 

IIRC, drive pressure is the pressure measured between the exhaust manifold and before the first turbine wheel in the exhaust stream.

brandon.

 

that makes sense, if your already fired piston is exerting x amount of pressure on the head, plus the neighbor pistons boost PSI would be alot more than a smaller amount of exhaust drive pressure, because the exhaust is not used to drive the second turbo. I think...

 

I guess I'm going to put a set of studs on my truck, What the heck its only $400.00 I've ****** that away on less importian things in the past

CRIS

 

When I was running a single H2E at 50# of boost I had 75# of drivepressure. Now with the twins I get 70# of boost with 65# of backpressure. 20#-25# more pressure and 10# less drivepressure. Be sure to warm your engine before letting the boost get over 15#-20# as you can lift a head with studs when it is still cool, I know, been there done that.
Bruce

 

Thanks Bruce

Thats some good info I'll have to try to keep my foot out of it til it warms up. Do you think it is worth doing the studs? I don't see how it will hurt and maybe they'll help keep the head down. $400.00 is a small price to pay to keep from having to change a head gasket. I don't want to have my truck down unless I plan on having it down.

CRIS

 

If it was me I would do port work & "O" rings at the same time, but this can get expensive. That said the studs are a good upgrade by themselves. You can't go wrong doing the studs, just remember when they say to retorque the studs two more times. They intend for you to loosen the nuts one at a time and retorque in the normal tightening sequence. This is needed to set the streach in the studs, loosen and retorque.
Bruce

 

Bruce

Thanks for the info, I'm going to do a head in the future, but I have to find one first. I just don't want to have my truck down for that long thats why I want to find another head so I can take my time and have it done RIGHT. As for the studs they will be done soon.

CRIS