hey guys i recently contacted enterprise engine to do my head work. i explaned to them what i was wanting to do with my truck, i told them i was going with 12mm arp head studs and he said i would have to machine the rockers. i had never heard this before but didnt question him about it so any input will be greatly appreciated

 

i didnt have to on my 2001 24v

 

I had to do mine on my 12 vlave. I understand that the 24v engines don't need it but 12valves do. We had to take about 1/4" off where the stud is.

Jason

 

I'm just going to O-ring it and use new bolts. If everything is true things will hold up nicely. I know some guys thatr are pushing huge boost and making big power in that configuration with no issues what so ever.

 

you know i ran 55 lbs of boost and hit 63 one time not tying to with stock head bolts after i installed my twins and did this for 2 mos then got the arps did the 4 torque cycle that thay said to went to 130lbs then the frist time i hit 55lbs after that the head gasket let go out the back of the block oil in the water so i dont know about the arps 2000 12mms some trucks can run high boost and some cant is it luck is it studs that act like rubber bands after x-amount of cylinder pressure it would be nice to no

 

Not sure what causes these issues other than something being untrue?? I just know I am heading the O-ring way. The more guy's I talk to the more confidant I am about using them without studs. You just need to have a good machinest that has done them countless times and I believe I have the guy.........

 

ok thanks for the replys now my next question is do you think i should pay 15 dollars for each one or is it something i can do with a grinding wheel

 

EEP does awsome work they have done my head work (valve job,o-ring,P&P,springs,titanium keepers and retainers) as well as others I know. Get ARP's have EEP mill the rockers and be done IMO.
Brandon

 

fluty118,

This is where the stud washer and nut will seat so I would certainly have it milled and not do it with a grinding wheel IMO.

Jason

 

I had to mill the edge of the rocker tower to clear the washer on a customers 99 when we did his head studs. It only happens on the intake side of the tower....On the 12v's...you would need to remove 2 webs inside the valve covers so that the studs will fit

Rick

 

The new studs you DO NOT touch the webbing in the valve cover you mill the rocker tower.
Brandon

 

I thought the clearance with the valve cover was only a problem if you didnt bottom tap the holes?

 

For me I had to cut out the web of the VCs even after bottom tapping and it was still really close!
When I had the engine apart last time I cut the rockers just in case I ever need to change valve covers of something? Who knows whats next

 

bottom tapping, Is this done so that you get more thread contact?

 

Make it easy Read the directions I know the old studs you left the tower alone and cut out the webbing and the newer studs you mill the rocker tower down and don't touch the webbing. You bottom tap the holes yes to get a hair more thread engagement but also to clean the threads and get rid of any burrs. I know bottom tapping is a on going war weather not to do it or to do it, but you have the head off just do it whats so hard I see no reason not to do it? But it is not required.
Brandon