Ok, here it goes,

I got the bright idea to go ahead and do the washer GSK to my pickup. I didn't have a Vernier Calipers so I just counted the clicks on the retainer nut and took notice of how far on the stud it was. Took a friend and I about Four different times of tearing back into the pump and turing retainer nuts until we finally got it to idle just like it had before. Everything was working fine until I stepped on the throttle and went to shift. It just hung up and stayed around 2000 rpm. The only way to make it idle was to lug it down. So I went back in and took the washers out. I just want to make sure I didn't mess anything up because you are always second guessing if it runs as good as it did before you mess with it. When I took the Retainer clips off the first time it was 5 clicks, so that is what I put it back to when i took the washers out. If it Idles just like it did before nothing else should have changed, correct? Also, if i were to buy the actuall 3GSK spring would it still hang up?

Sorry for the windy post but I can't help but second guess myself.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Corey

 

that is expected when you do the washer spring kit, all you need to do is turn the idle screw back down until it will idle right. no bigt deal i have done this a few times with trucks comming through my shop and all you have to do is turn the idle down.

chris

 

It shouldnt "hang" at 2k rpm's. You might have to readjust the idle, but it shouldnt stay revved when you let off of it. The washer mod is probably ok, but for $100, id just buy the springs.

Eric

 

You would buy the springs for $120 when two washers cost $0.24 total? Just tinker with the nut, maybe backoff a click or two. When I did mine, I didn't have any problems. There's a whole thread on the GWK that might really help you. Also, what size were the washers? They have to be 1 in. or smaller to work properly.

 

Dont get me wrong, im all for cheap power, but seems i have seen of some pumps failing here lately and a few of them had this mod, so I dont know if its related or not. Your pump is not something you want to screw up because of $100 in my opinion though.

Eric

 

True, True. That just gives me a reason to buy the 4K now.

 

The washers were 3/8" that I drilled out to 1/2". I did search the GSK thread and it seemed that there were a few other people who had the "hang up" but I was just curiuos if the springs would make it do the same thing? I also readjusted the retainer nut four-five times befores I got it to Idle at 750. It only hung up if I reved it past 1500 rpm or so.

 

I bought the 3k springs (3k GSK) and no hang up, in fact, I didn't have to adjust anything, not even the idle!

I was going to save my $100 and just use the washers, but I read so many posts about guys having issues with them, that I just didn't want the hassle. I'm with cumminsdriver635, I just think its easier, and safer, to buy the springs, but to each his own.

 

i had the same problem my idel was low so i adjusted the idel screw and it would stick. I tightend my retainers more and that did the trick

 

I would get a caliper and make sure the retainers were set at the right height. I can't remember what it is, somewhere around .040 It should be in a previous post if you do a search.

 

How easy is it to install the 3k springs?
Anyone have a detailed photo or something?
I seen the write-up, I think on cumminsdatabase, but its still foggy for me.
I dont want to mess up anything, but i do want the 3k gsk asap!

 

Chances are if it hangs.

then u are too tight on the springs.. Back them up one click at a time till u get them right... and Eric, having done both, i love how cheap the washer mod is if you only want 3K rpms, BUT surely u will want more than that eventually so why not get the 4K kit?

Rick

 

The extra springs for the 4k are sitting in the shop, I just have to put them in That was one thing I got for Christmas

Eric

 

I can't wait to get a 4k for mine...40" tall tires, 3.55's, and a 5spd don't like short shifts.

 

I though it was fairly easy. Some instructions say to go through the top, after you take the AFC housing off and remove the cam plate. Other instructions say to go through the plug on the side, I tried both and I though going through the plug on the side is way easier. Here are those instructions from PDR:

http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm

The only critical measurement is the how much the stud protrudes from the adjusting nuts, you have to put it back exactly the way it was from the factory. Just use a caliper to measure the distance, and also count the turns and the number of clicks on each of the two nuts. If you get this measurement wrong, then you will have idle problems. Read this post, it has a lot of good info:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=125489