Was considering getting a #10 or 11 plate for my truck. However, I also read of sliding the stock plate forward. I assume this gives somewhat the same effect, but my question is if sliding the stock plate ahead is worth doing? I don't want to go with a radical upgrade and wonder if this might save me a few bucks?

TIA
Rick

 

Either way you really should install a pyro first otherwise your new power could equal a new engine.
An after-market plate will give you more usuable horsepower as just silding the stock plate creates higher egts, power that you can't safely use.

 

Yep ... sure will ... it's free hp!!!

Remove the wastegate hose from the turbo while you're at it & plug the hose. That'll allow you to generate more boost.

If you've got the 5 speed, then you have the 215 pump & sliding is worth 100 ft-lbs.

 

Sorry, infidel, I should have mentioned, I have the Autometer Pyro and Boost guages along with the pod all ready to go, just have to get at it! Procrastinate, procrastinate, story of my life. 8>)

Yes, I have the 5 speed and was thinking of the #11 plate to save my clutch, but then thought that as the #11 is such a "mild" plate, perhaps sliding the stock plate might give more or less the same result?? So, I just have to locate that rascally wastegate hose to disconnect........

Rick

 

The #11 is the plate that won't toast your stock clutch, but sliding the stock plate won't get you to the #11. Good practice until the #11 gets there.

@ the turbo, follow the wastegate & the hose that connects.

 

I originally slid my stock plate forward and was extremely imlpressed with the power gain I don't remember which company did but one of them dyno'd a stock plate at 40 rwhp and I believe it because I was more impressed with the gain from stock plate slid forward then going from that to a #10 all the way forward. Slide it before ya pay for a plate it may be enough of a gain for ya or you can make your own out of your stock plate I made what they consider a #100 plate my #10 sits in my glove box

 

OK what exactly do they consider a #100 plate? #0? Seen those mentioned alot, but always wondered.

Ian

 

Rick,
I'm changing my #11 for a #10. If you are interested, we could work something out. There's 40-50 of us meeting in Red Deer on the 20th Nov. It's a discussion-information meet. 10:00 am at World's Gym parking lot(near the Peavey Mart and Canadian Tire at the south side of Red Deer) Might see you there.
Andy
p.s. look under chapter events

 

You bet.. Be there or be SQUARE..

I have been down the road with the stock plate slid up, blocked wastegate etc..The stock plate slid forward is good for power but can get crazy on EGT as you don't get any defueling at higher RPMs, and neither does the #100 plate. With the stock turbo and 12cm housing, upper end fuel is what puts the EGT into the Red real fast.

I installed the #10 plate and have to say its no comparison to the stocker. The low end torque is great and far more impressive than the stocker.. The stock plate is pretty flat in profile and the 10 gives that nice low end punch. HOWEVER there is a price and that is the clutch.

Now don't run away yet, the main part of a 12V (the part I love) is that you can infinitely adjust your plate position to what ever level of power you want. If the clutch slips, inch it back a bit till it doesn't (or you get a new clutch ). Or if you are too hot, back it out to respectable levels.

I have my #10 set at the very edge of sanity for the clutch, needless to say not the 330/750 advertised, probably around 700 ft-lbs. It complains once and while if you get a good hook, but you get a feel for it.

The part I like about the 10 is that with the stock turbo, the pyro doesn't try to pass itself once you get over 2500 Rpm. I can touch 1300°F, but not often.

It would be great if you could come down to Red Deer and you could talk to all of us 12V with different setups..

J-eh

 

Is your foot the only boost control then? Do you guys ever use mechanical boost controllers (MBC) to set the boost?

 

the 100 plate is a #10 plate on the bottom and a #0 up top... no defueling curve at high RPM.

Forrest

 

Beef and Dog....... I'll try and make it, it'd be great to meet a bunch of you, but, that's the time I have our annual hunting trip planned, so likely won't be able to make it...... 8>( Beef, I'm interested in the #11. When are you planning the change to a 10? Maybe you can show me how it's done? Looks like you guys have some serious mods done!

Rick

 

yes, once you have enough fuel, the hx35 will over speed with a blocked wastegate. 32-34 max boost for a stock 35. Past that , it's exceeding its rpm potential, as well as suffering huge drive pressure redlines, not to mention making hot, unusable air. I have a turbo smart.......owning a DSM, I'm sure you know what that is.......but before acquiring that, I had a DIY unit.....tapped the boost elbow for an allen head plug and drilled a 1/16th inch hole in it. ahead of that installed a needle valve from the harware store to limit pressure to the elbow. It is infinitely adjustable just like the turbo smart valve. End result, the turbo "thinks" its seeing 18 psi, but in actaulity is making 34. Don't fiddle with the wastgate linkage, spring tension or travel length. Keep it simple with a mechanical fooler.

 

Rick,
I'm hoping to change my plate on the 20th at the meet. If I don't get my hands on a #10 and you can't make it on the 20th, I'll get in touch with you later.
Andy

 

I'm just surprised at the lack of mention of MBCs and EBCs where as a lot of people talk about just disconnecting the wastegate itself. I suppose it isn't as critical as in a gasser as they'd hit a point where boost creep would take place and blow the motor unless stopped by letting off the throttle, but still the turbo can be pushed up into a less than optimal situation like overrevving the turbo or running it out of its efficiency map.