MNorby

Another fuel plate question but searched and didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I finally got my pyro and am about to start turning stuff up more. Already have a BHAF and straight pipe. I was planning on playing with my plate and screw after getting the pyro so I can see how high I can go without getting too much but I am about to take a 1200 mile trip pulling my 4X truck (15,000 pound combo) to Moab for easter and want to turn it up but I don't want to go to extreme that I have to worry about EGTs with never having had any experience of any setups. Would I be safe on my stock plate and screw all in pulling that far or should I wait so I can test and tune later? Any advise? Thanks.

RCW

There are two issues involved. The fuel plate can be safely slid forward about 1/8" of an inch if your timing is stock and has not slipped down to 9 or less. If you timing has slid, like anyone's will if they have not retimed it since it was new, you will just make more EGT and get lousy fuel economy.

The second issue is the screw, of which I assume you mean the star wheel. My advice is to not screw with it or you will trash your fuel economy. The best bet is to pick up the TST AFC spring kit and install the medium spring with the weight you pull. A lot of guys diddle with the star wheel, but with the OEM tension spring you accomplish absolutely nothing except to cause the fueling rate to pick up too fast before the turbo can provide enough air to burn the fuel. That makes lots of smoke when starting out, and smoke is unburned fuel and more dollars at the pump. It also only works when moving from idle to speed, and once you are up on the turbo, the AFC (star wheel) does absolutely nothing. It is simply a smoke and fuel economy control.

MNorby

so probably my best bet would be to get the timing set to around 16.5* or so then staart fiddling. Hoe mush does it average cost to time?

bmoeller

$80-150 range is what I've heard. Need to do mine yet.

MNorby

I called the 2 places that work on diesels today and one quoted me $180 for timeing but will only go .5* more than stock and the other place said $80 for whatever I want. Should I go to 16.5* with my 97 like I have been reading is the most common? I still want to be able to pull trailers with no worry. Thanks.

infidel

16.5 is good for a '97 but I'd be careful on the $80 deal. Some shops will say they can do it but don't have the tools and will often advance the timing mathematically by dividing the dampener diameter 360 then using that reference to move the pump gear. This is fine if you know what the timing is before you start but if you don't it's just a guess. Best to ask if they use a dial indicator to adjust the timing, if not go elsewhere

MNorby

I'll ask that. Also, just got my pyrometer hooked up tonight and qurious about its readings. I can hit 1100 if I get on it hard for a bit like in forth gear and the needle moves quite abit almost like the boost gauge. I've only driven one other cummins with a pyro and it is a 24 valve with tons of mods on it and it doesn't seem to move as fast/ much. Also when I pull out of it to idle it almost goes to 300 in like 5-10 sec. Is this normal and I am just new with this or what? Our semis don't move the pyro that much. Thanks for the help.

got...DIESEL?

1100 is okay...1250 is optimum peak anyway...and close to normal redline. these things cool down fast, and they can heat up fast as well. What you describe is normal S.O.P.

Don't shut her down till she reaches at least as low as 375. Oil cokes the turbo bearings at 400 if left that hot. Better to let 'em run down to 300, just takes 30-60 sec usually.

infidel

You may have been seeing post turbo pyros, they react much slower than pre.