I have searched here and seen that a lot of people run a rubber fuel line with a needle valve before going to stainless braided hose up to the cab to hook up to the fuel pressure gauge.
Does anyone have a "schematic" or drawing of from where the tap off of the fuel pressure is all the way up to the gauge with this method? I am looking for what parts I need to get (any ferrules, bushing, hoses, fittings etc. etc.) before I start this job. Should Napa and Grainger have just about anything I need? Also, what size stainless braided hose should I get?

Thanks,
~Rob

 

Rob,

check out Moose10's setup:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat/500/page/2

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat/500/page/2

You should be able to get the bits and pieces from either Graniger or NAPA....Will need the tapped banjo bolt for connection to the fuel filter (get that when you order the guages)..

 

Rob,
Just a thought- I installed a fuel pressure warning light from bigdadyz.com. It ran me around $70 including shipping. The install was a snap and theres no fuel lines to the cab.

 

What is the doo-hickey at the bottom of this pic. called? It looks like it goes from the right-angle adapter to the rubber fuel line?



~Rob

 

Another question: Can I use the needle valve to shut off fuel to the cab completely if I have to or should I have another isolation valve in the system?

Thanks,
~Rob

 

Yes, the needle valve will shut off flow.


phox

 

Yep...

The fitting on the bottom is called a push lock fitting....Grainger should carry them as well (If you cant find it there, check out Swagelok)

That one is 1/8" NPT (male) to 1/4" hose (diesel rated of course).

That push lock fitting will not leak and once the hose is on there you dont need a clamp....very secure and cheaper than SS Braided line.

 

Okay, now I am a little confused. At some point, won't I need SS braided to get into the cab? Or is that rubber fuel line (Moose10's pics) run all the way to the cab without transitioning to SS braided?

Thanks,
~Rob

 

Thats what he told me - that fuel line goes right up to his guage. Would need some transition to make it 1/8" female to adapt to the guage.

People have a lot of different setups. Obviously, S.S. braided hose is the safest. But I see no problem with using fuel line and pushlock fittings. Some people even use 1/8" boost line.

 

The normal route that I take in all the F.P. gauges that I install is fuel/oil grade 1/8"(boost type line) from the needle valve under the hood to the gauge. Since most of the trucks that I do have automatics..the owners opt for a trans temp gauge to complete the 3 gauge pillar(pyro,boost,trans temp) so I install the F.P. gauge under the dash just above the left edge of the tunnel. It is still in site of the driver and also I can get at the line if needed. With the 1/8" lines that I have done...there has no runs,no drips , no errors...and NO LEAKS!

Rick

 

Hi Rob,
You don't "need" SS braided hose.....I have yet to understand the stigma behind that ....I agree, yeah it looks cool ('til it gets dirty), and compared to some types of hose it is stronger and more abrasion resistant, but really to me it wasn't worth the price.
At the gauge I used a female 1/8NPT to 1/4" hose push-lock fitting. Same as the one pictured, but with threads on the inside....to screw onto the gauge.
The hose I used is bulk 300psi rated 1/4" hydraulic line from NAPA......7' at less than $2/ft.
Hope that helps !

 

Sweet,
Thanks Moose. I was just looking at Graingers website and found the pushlocks. The hose was on the same page in reels of like 250'. I was trying to figure out what to do with about 240 extra feet . Looks like its off to Napa I go. How hard was it to route the 1/4" hydraulic line into the cab and up to the gauge?

Thanks,
~Rob

 

It was actually easier to route the hose as opposed to the boost gauge tubing (it wanted to keep curling up) I routed everything through the big rubber grommet in the firewall by the clutch pedal, over the emergency brake pedal....just be sure to zip tie stuff away from the linkage, then feed it up past the fuse block and headlight switch to the pillar. It helped to have the headlight switch removed.
btw, I got all the hardware from NAPA too.
I'm glad you didn't have to buy 250' of hose !

 

THAT's where you are going to be glad you didn't use braided! Running my braided line was a huge PITA.

jlh

 

Okay,
So I went to Grainger and they only had the 1/8 NPT (M) to 1/4 id. pushlock. I got that there, but am still searching for the 1/8 NPT (F) to 1/4 id for hooking up to the gauge.
I put the pushlock intot the hose I got at Napa (1/4" Fuel Line, but marked "Not for Fuel Injection Systems" - SAE 30R7, Gates). When the yellow plastic cup is flush with the end of the hose, it fits loosely over it. In other words, I can spin the plastic cup around. Is this normal? Or do I need a little bigger OD hose? I can't measure the OD, as my calipers are at work.

Thanks,
~Rob