Those of you who have installed a gauge to monitor your fuel pressure..what gauge are you using and is it installed in cockpit or out? If it's outside...how do you read it underway?

I've found isspro mechanical (outside) and autometer electric inside. The autometer only has 15 and 100 psi scales though. Wouldn't we want something around 30 psi max scale? The electrical unti is quite pricey.

???

 

I'm running the ISSPRO 30PSI EV series in cab. No isolater but I do have a cut off valve at the banjo bolt. Works great and matches the OEM great.

-CM

 

Me too.
Isspro 30# mounted like this:
(the gauge on the right)


With a stainless steel braided line hooked up like this:


Two years, no leaks.
Do it right the first time.

Bought the whole enchalada from Rod @ www.wildcatdiesel.com 8)

 

So do you usually run witht he valve closed or open. I would think a fuel line running in the cab would be dangerous, or at least stinky if even the slightest leak occured. What's the "isolator" mentioned???

Why would a sending unit type be so much more expensive?

 

The needle valve is not quite all the way closed.
This way it dampens the fuel pulses, and prevents the gauge from buzzing, while still allowing accurate readings.

I ran high quality stainless steel braided line 'cuz Rod recommended it and I wanted to do it correctly the first time.
If you do it correctly, with quality parts, there are no leaks.

Some folks using isolators are having trouble with the isolators failing.

The difference in price is for the cost of sending unit on the electronic gauges.
The mechanical gauges, like mine, have no sending unit, it reads pressure on the line.

 

I agree....a mechanical FP guage is the way to go. With the needle valve and S.S. flex tubing you will never have to worry about a leak.

Electronic guages usually have sender troubles.

 

I have the Westach electrical gauge: 0-30 psi. I had a Westach 0-15 gauge for a year, but the needle kept sticking at the top end after I replaced the lift pump. ;D Haven't had a problem with either gauge.

 

I have a Dakota Digital 0-30 FP gauge. It's been installed about a year w/out any issues.


Tony

 

[quote author=Rattletrap1 link=board=5;threadid=18004;start=0#msg168612 date=1060122509]
What's the "isolator" mentioned???

Why would a sending unit type be so much more expensive?
[/quote]

The isolator has antifreeze, or similar liquid, going to the guage, with a diaphram(?) in between the diesel fuel and the antifreeze.
No fuel in cab, but sticky sweet antifreeze that can leak.

The sending unit type, IE electrical, has more parts, thus more to go bad.
Sender changes the pressure reading to electrical volts, runs through wires into the cab, attaches to voltmeter type guage.
Guage can go bad, sender can go bad or just partly bad and either register too much or not enough volts, even if the pressure is fine.
Digital is a sender with a digital readout guage instead of analog.

Me, when I get my guages, I'm going to go with a digital fuel pressure, and analog for everything else.
Unless I change my mind by spring.


phox

 

Actually presure gauges are about all you can get in mechanical gauges. (fuel pressure & boost)
Temp gauges require senders, pyros require thermocouples.

 

[quote author=Shovelhead link=board=5;threadid=18004;start=0#msg168685 date=1060132456]
Actually presure gauges are about all you can get in mechanical gauges. (fuel pressure & boost)
Temp gauges require senders, pyros require thermocouples.
[/quote]

Right.

You can still have an analog guage with a sender though.

Analog = sweeping pointers or hands
Digital = LED or LCD numbers


phox

 

I also have a Dakota digital fuel pressure gauge and I am very happy with it. I had an Isspro mechanical FP gauge for a while then the fact that fuel could leak in the cab if everything wasnt perfect eventualy got to me. Then Rod at Wildcat told me about the Dakota setup and said they were a good reliable gauge with a VDO sendor. Once installed it showed the same readings as the mechanical. Mechanical is not excluded from failure, all gauges can fail.
And like Shovelhead said the boost is the only other mechanical. Pyro is electric.

 

Thanks for all the great info guys. So westech and Dakota have properly scaled electrical gauges in analog and digital respectively. Any links?

I was aware of the difference between electrical and mechanical, just wondered why a sending unit would be so pricey (RE: autometer @ < $200), when the gauge is just like any other voltage sensitive gauge.

Thanks for the info on what an "isolater" is.

Steve

 

I have been running the Westach fuel pressure gauge (like this one) for almost 2 years and no problems so far. I also have a mechanical mounted under the hood to monitor before and after filter pressures. A fuel pressure gauge is a "must have" for a 24 valve truck IMO. I had the readings on the Westach compare exactly to what the readings were when the dealer checked mine and replaced the lift pump under warranty. ;D

 

I have an Isspro mechanical mounted near the 4x4 shifter under the dash. Have had no problems with leaks and the guage has worked flawlessly so far. I also have Isspro trans temp, boost and egt guages on the A pillar with no problems either.