Front rotors?
Front rotors?
It's time to replace my front brake rotors. Looking for the best price on drilled and slotted. stock calipers are fine so I won't be upgrading those.
Where can I get the best price on a good set of brakes and rotors without breaking my bank account? thanks all
Where can I get the best price on a good set of brakes and rotors without breaking my bank account? thanks all
I'm not sure about you yr. but I haven't read there was a change either, on mine the rotor and bearing are one unit and not avalable sepretely , I did read that some prices where about 180-220 about the cheapest I've heard of.
High quality Brembo rotors and Hawk pads from www.tirerack.com are the best deal going.
If they don't show these items for your truck on their website call, they likely do offer them.
2wd rotors have the bearing built in and are twice the price of 4wd rotors.
If they don't show these items for your truck on their website call, they likely do offer them.
2wd rotors have the bearing built in and are twice the price of 4wd rotors.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 161
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From: In the middle of Weather Dry Creek Farm in Avilla, Arkansas
Rotors for the 01.5 are separate from the hub. just pull a couple of keepers off the lug bolts and it slides right off.
Don't remember the cost, but not very much.
Don't remember the cost, but not very much.
Originally Posted by 20014x4
It's time to replace my front brake rotors. Looking for the best price on drilled and slotted. stock calipers are fine so I won't be upgrading those.
Where can I get the best price on a good set of brakes and rotors without breaking my bank account? thanks all
Where can I get the best price on a good set of brakes and rotors without breaking my bank account? thanks all
Drilled and slotted?? Goin racin? The holes will crack when you get them hot!
You want good quality stock rotors for a truck! More braking surface.
I've heard drilled rotors may crack under extreme heat. I also know slotted will dissipate heat better than non slotted. The standard rotors have lots of heat fractures on them. thats why I'm replacing them. So maybe I won't go with drilled.
As far as racing goes I only race ferds.
As far as racing goes I only race ferds.
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Originally Posted by 20014x4
I've heard drilled rotors may crack under extreme heat. I also know slotted will dissipate heat better than non slotted. The standard rotors have lots of heat fractures on them. thats why I'm replacing them. So maybe I won't go with drilled.
As far as racing goes I only race ferds.
As far as racing goes I only race ferds.
Slotted/drilled will dissipate brake gasses, but never heard that of heat.
I bought some off of EBAY for my truck and the are drilled, slotted, and zinc plated so they won't rust! I have them on and I Love them. i think they were about 160 shipped to my door. Check it out.
I got the EBC rotors and pads.
They are slotted and dimpled, not drilled.
Been runnin them for several years, work great.
I am also running 37" tires, and tow a lot.
Would highly recommend them.
Brad
They are slotted and dimpled, not drilled.
Been runnin them for several years, work great.
I am also running 37" tires, and tow a lot.
Would highly recommend them.
Brad
Front Rotors
I bought some drilled / slotted & zinc plated rotors off E-Bay but the company that sells them is less than an hour from my home so I picked them up locally. I discussed it with them. Great warranty also! All machine work is done at their facility. I paid $130.00! Got great deal because they were normally much higher!
They work great for me. I did some checking prior to the purchase and the drilled / slotted surface should NOT be a problem. Warranty also helps!
FYI - I use a Torx T-45 and 16mm 12pt. socket to remove the caliper and bracke/brace in order to change the rotor and brake pads. I thought others would like to know this since it took me a while to verify and secure a socket for the 12pt. bolts !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps.
They work great for me. I did some checking prior to the purchase and the drilled / slotted surface should NOT be a problem. Warranty also helps!
FYI - I use a Torx T-45 and 16mm 12pt. socket to remove the caliper and bracke/brace in order to change the rotor and brake pads. I thought others would like to know this since it took me a while to verify and secure a socket for the 12pt. bolts !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope this helps.
I've got an 01.5 4X4
The OEM rotors are CRAP on the 01.5.... the price was just as crappy from the dealer ($196 a piece)
I got some Mexican after markets and they too were CRAP even though they were a little thicker than the OEMs $75 (warped like he11)
Believe it or not, the best ones I've found yet are the NAPA premiums for $125 a piece.
I think the stopping power of these brakes is phenomenal, but the calipers stick and require lots of attention... they make lots of noise and are very temperamental without using OEM or PerformanceFriction. I actually thought I was purchasing the OEM pads from the dealer but the idiots pulled a bait and switch... they sold me some inferior crap that squealed and died within a year.
The OEM rotors are CRAP on the 01.5.... the price was just as crappy from the dealer ($196 a piece)
I got some Mexican after markets and they too were CRAP even though they were a little thicker than the OEMs $75 (warped like he11)
Believe it or not, the best ones I've found yet are the NAPA premiums for $125 a piece.
I think the stopping power of these brakes is phenomenal, but the calipers stick and require lots of attention... they make lots of noise and are very temperamental without using OEM or PerformanceFriction. I actually thought I was purchasing the OEM pads from the dealer but the idiots pulled a bait and switch... they sold me some inferior crap that squealed and died within a year.
20014x4,
Consider the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. I have them on my truck and my wifes Navigator and they have been great. Both of these trucks have been a PITA for steering wheel shudder when braking due to the less than great stock parts and this has totally cured it. Get the Cyro'ed ones and you'll likely never need rotors for a long long time. The non cyro'ed ones are good but the cyro'ed ones just take abuse so much better!
Another thing is you need to follow their bedding in procedure to the letter, if you do it'll work out great. If you're confused ask me for any info. It's one of the best items I have ever gotten for my truck(s)!
Mark @ DPPI
Consider the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. I have them on my truck and my wifes Navigator and they have been great. Both of these trucks have been a PITA for steering wheel shudder when braking due to the less than great stock parts and this has totally cured it. Get the Cyro'ed ones and you'll likely never need rotors for a long long time. The non cyro'ed ones are good but the cyro'ed ones just take abuse so much better!
Another thing is you need to follow their bedding in procedure to the letter, if you do it'll work out great. If you're confused ask me for any info. It's one of the best items I have ever gotten for my truck(s)!
Mark @ DPPI



