Box5

I was gonna do the washer mod, but decided just to buy a 3 gsk kit. I'm pretty anxious to see what the difference will be compared to no GSK. The plate was a ok boost, but i hope this really puts my truck at a good level to stay at for awhile. I just don't have a stupid caliper, so I might make somthing that can measure the stud hieght....

Muddin_dude06

If you bought an actual GSK I think you can just count the clicks Box5. I have the washer GSK right now but have a 4GSK on the way so I may post up on my preference between the two...

superuke

My truck is idling too sloww.If I'm backing out of the driveway & hit the brake it stalls. To make it idle faster, do I turn the idle screw in or out??

Box5

Thats what I was hoping I could do. I gotta say though, that plug on the side is tucked down in there, I can barely get a good view of it from any angle. It's right behind the fuel selenoid linkage and all the throttle linkage. I'm gonna take the afc off and see how comfortable I feel installing it through the top. Otherwise i'll be working half blind through the side plug, which has me pretty nervous of dropping things in since u have to manuever to get to it.

513yj

pull the solenoid, then a 8mm wrench on the lever nut and it slides out perfect. just watch out for the little keyway on the top of the shaft. 7/8 6 point socket and you get the hole right there. i installed washers in less than an hour with this method.

Box5

i got my camera down in there, i guess I could just lift the selenoid to the run position, but it's still tucked behind everything to work smoothly. I thought the fuel plate was hard to get to at first, but now I can get to it in 5 minutes so hopefully this will be the same.

VinDiesel

I always go in from the top (remove the fuel plate). It's just easier. No need to completely remove the fuel solenoid (just like when doing fuel plate). Just don't drop any washer/nut/retainer/seat/ANYTHING in the pump or you'll possibly be in for a long "fishing" expedition with a magnetic retriever!

Tools you have to have:

2 strong magnetic retrievers (I use one that extends or collapses like an antenna and one long flexible).
Large screwdriver (or big long bit) with a notch in the middle to clear the stud.
Another long screwdriver to "hold" parts down that you don't want to move when using the magnet(s).
1/2" drive socket to fit the alternator nut and rachet.
Small, strong flashlight such as an LED flashlight about 6-7" long.

+ all the tools normally required to remove the AFC housing/fuel plate.

wcbcruzer

You're going to have to remove the fuel shutdown solenoid if you go in from the side.

Box5

i'll try going in from the top, hopefully I won't drop anything.

VinDiesel

FIRST go under the casting and loosen the lock nut (10mm wrench/socket).
Then turn the stop bolt out a little (~1/8 turn).

Try it. Re-adjust as necessary, then tighten the lock nut.

VinDiesel

Just go slow and easy. Beer and distractions are not good while doing this.
A helper to turn the engine slowly with the socket on the alternator nut is a big help, IF they don't become the afore mentioned distraction!

gunracer1

this is a great mod for the guys that want to mess with there trucks. if you are not into working on your truck, this is not a mod for you to under take. i have done it to more than a few trucks, and all the folks were real happy.

513yj

ten times easier through the hole in the side. take off solenoid 35 seconds remove arm 1 minute 35 seconds and then 7/8 10 seconds and off. i tried through the top and it was hard there is a rod in the way. it really is easier through the side all joking aside the only hard thing is the 5/16 bolt on the back of the solenoid. the top ones are a cinch and the pin that holds it on is easy so then all you need to do is remove the arm which is loosening the 8mm nut. i tapped a short straight screwdriver in the crack to get it off easier. when it is off take the keyway on the top of the rod off then installation is reverse order. oh yeah a pair of pliers to get the lockwire out of the plugs way.

Jeremy Cusick

only took me 1 hour going in from the top, and that was counting the 10 minute fishing expedition to retrieve one of the nuts that hold it all to the stud. That wasn't counting "cold tool" breaks. :P

Box5

Phew!!! Just got done installing it through the top. The city diesel instructions are good for going in through the top. What I did to ease the thought of dropping somthing, was stuff a paper towel down in the pump around the spring perch thing. I didn't drop anything on it, but it was a good way to catch somthing if u did happen to drop somthing. Took about a hour and a half going really slow. There were a few "butt clinching" moments, lol, but all in all once u get going it's like clockwork. I'd reccomend going in from the top, just do the paper towel method to cushion anything u might drop. And one of those thin retractable pencil magnets works wonders if u put each item through it then touch the end of the magnet on the stud and just slide the spring/nut/retainer down into place.

Now, gotta go for a drive, lol