ok i did this to my 98 12v the other day. the main reason was to get it to shift at w.o.t. instead of defueling, then shifting. i have installed many gsk kits, both 3 and 4k. and i had a real good idea how the govener worked. and how the springs worked on the govener set up.
i pulled the afc, the plate then spun the motor over till i got a good shot at the retainer nut. i like to wire up the fuel shut off to get a bit more room. then i feel with a screw driver to see how much thread protrusion it has on the nut, i used to do this with a set of calipers but i don't need to use them any more. i mark the position of the retainer nut as to what position it is in, as in 9 o'clock or may be 1 o'clock. then i pulled the nut off. i use a magnet i got from the snap on man that retracts the magnet up inside the tool until you push down on the tools handle. this has worked better than 10 other types of magnets i have tried. then i took off the retainer and placed it out of the way. i measured the size of the 2nd from the outside springs and found that a 3/8th washer is just a bit smaller. but i needed the 3/8ths hole to be a 1/2 inch. so i put it in a vise and took a drill bit and opened the washer up to 1/2 inch. i put the washer on top of all the springs and put the retainer in place then the nut. then i spun the nut down till i got to the position that it was at to begin with. i rotated the motor and did the same thing to the otherside. well it spins right past 3k, idles like it ought to and has the throttle responce that has made us all love our gsk that we have installed in the past. now this is not a mod for everyone, unless you feel comfortable pulling into your pump, you may want to pass. but if you are not afraid of droping nuts, retainers or washer into your pump and fishing them out with out doing any damage go for it

 

Thanks for posting sirrr! I'll add this info to my list of "cheap mods".

 

ok i pulled mine back apart and after looking at it again, a regular 1/2 washer will work. the 3/8ths washer i used was over size. i pulled it out and put 2 1/2" washers in its place. i was trying to get it to pull harder above 4k. it really didn't seem to make that much of a differance. the single washer let it pull to 3600 pretty good. and the 2 washers is a real pain to get tightened back to the stock location. i do not recomend the 2 stacked washers. one is fine, 2 is not worth the hassel. just make sure the 1/2" washer will set inside the big idle spring. mike

 

So if I am reading this right, you left the three springs in the governor. Pulled the small "special" nut and then the retainer. You then added the washer, replaced the retainer and then the nut? How thick was the washer??

 

just a standard 1/2 washer with a diameter that measures right close to 1 inch. and yes all i did was remover the nut and retainer, placed the washer inside the big spring and put it all back together. the other thing i have found out is that it may provide more than 3600 with one washer. i was thinking that was what was holding me back, and i added another washer to mine. only to discover that it was not my problem.
.

 

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What was limiting you? I adjusted the full throttle stop on mine and can pull about 3200.

Right there!!

 

What thickness is the washer? Not all washers are the same thickness and you can get shims in any thickness. Suggestions??

 

Is the gsk most noticable on auto's ? I just drove a 98 5spd and it pulled hard to 3200rpm. I have a reman 215 pump and injectors to put in my 95 auto and was considering a gsk , but do i need it ?

 

gsk's are great in auto's and sticks. the washers were about .070 thick, but i don't have one in hand. and i have all ready screwed in the full throttle stop. i start nosing over in the 3600 to 3800 range which is 130 mph or so. and i want to go a bunch faster. it may be a fuel issue but i am thinking it is a timing issue. and i am running out of time to figure it out.

 

what a great free mod thanks

 

Wouldn't just tightening up the stock springs have the same effect? Or am I missing something else?

 

Tightening up the stock springs will also tighten the outer springs that control idle rpm- by shimming the inner springs you increase the preload on the governing springs only without changing the idle.

HTH

AlpineRAM

 

Only thing I can see after doing mine today, was the throttle was VERY touchy. Floating gears is now tricky... if I don't shift it and press the throttle just the right amount, it feels like I'm on a bucking bronco. Other than that, I love it!

 

Plus, with just tightening, you only get about 100 more rpm per click. Not worth it when a washer can do better

 

yes.

it will idle faster, then you can screw down the idle screw, on the back of the pump, but them... the truck wont start, without pressing the pedal.