Has anyone installed a brighter set of reverse lamps, or a set of 55 watt fog lamps on the back bumper of their '03 yet? I have been toying around with the idea and wanted to get some ideas and see what people recommend. It will defintiely make backing easier at night. I've seen the integrated unit (White Knight) that mounts on the hitch, but I don't really like it that much. Thanks in advance!

 

I haven't done it in this rig...yet. From past experience...be careful that the bulbs don't get too hot for the enclosure that they're in. You can melt the reflectors.

 

[quote author=Redneck Headbanger link=board=17;threadid=20360;start=0#msg191051 date=1064952075]
I haven't done it in this rig...yet. From past experience...be careful that the bulbs don't get too hot for the enclosure that they're in. You can melt the reflectors.
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Cool, thanks for the advice. I am going to mount external foglights instead of using the upgrade bulbs. They will work much better than just changing the bulbs in the factory housings. I will probably also run a separate fused power lead, so I don't burn up the factory wiring. I will just use a relay off the factory reverse light wire.

 

Your wiring sounds good.
Remember, the foglights are designed to mount right-side-up.
So when mounting them upside down, the drain hole will now be on the top allowing moisture to collect in the housing.

A little silicone in the old hole, and a drill bit will allow you to "move" the hole to the correct side of the housing.

 

I bought the White Knight kit but hated the way they looked on my truck. So threw away the plastic case and just kept the lights, wire, switch etc. Repositioned the trailer plug next to the receiver, made holes in the bumper and mounted the lights next to the licence plate. They look like it could have come from the factory and work great. I installed the switch between the tailgate and the bumper. it is invisable but I can still reach it easily. Only problem so far is that occasionally when washing the truck it is easy to bump the switch to another position. First time this happened left me wondering why my lights had suddenly failed.

 

i used flood lights. they give off a wider pattern than fogs and are cheaper. they are sold as tractor/work lights and i picked up one made by hella for under $7.00 at four wheel parts, but just about anyone sells them.. they are sold individually and use one wire to hook up. a note of advice though, mount them right side up or upside down as the beam pattern is wide and not tall. eg: i mounted mine sideways off the receiver hitch brace and the light is sufficient, but not as wide as it should be. i'll be making a bracket to mount it rightside up.

 

If they are the rubber encased tractor light with the sealed beam, you can just rotate the sealed beam inside the rubber casing.

Mike

 

Rubber tractor lights mounted to the bumper:

http://www.jimpointeronline.homestea...iles/rear2.jpg

There are at least two bolts on the rear bumper that as near as I can tell don't actually "bolt" anything at all, so I took them off and replaced them with stainless button heads to hold the light brackets. I actually like Mexstan's idea of putting them in the bumper, but I don't have the tools to do that properly.

 

Good call on the wiring. With 2 55W lights, you will draw a little over 9 amps when they are on. Make sure the relay can handle at least that.

 

jfpointer ........ how did you wire your lights.. did u tap into the factory back up light wires so they come in reverse or did u use a switch ??? thanks

 

I use PIAA 40 fog lights in my Reunel bumper. They provide a nice wash of light behind me while backing up. The light themselves present too great a load to run directly off the backup lighting circuit. What I did was to to energize the coil of a 40 amp relay by the backup wires, and power the light from the 12Volt constant on the trailer hitch wiring. Please take this advice from someone who learned the hard way. Solder all connections, don't use Scotchloks, and most importantly stow the relay and splices in the tail light housing. If you're in a salt area, the connections will last exactly 1 winter storm before they corrode and break off if you leave them exposed to salt spray. My first try had the connetions and relay up behind the spare, in the bumper cavity. Bad move! The 12V constant splice must be made down below, but after soldering, I RTV'ed the joint to seal it from corrosion. You can purchase relays and sockets with leads from Parts Express for a few dollars. I potted the entire relay in RTV to protect it from the salt baths our roads receive up here.

 

[quote author=dieselcrazy link=board=7;threadid=20360;start=0#msg191140 date=1064964624]
jfpointer ........ how did you wire your lights.. did u tap into the factory back up light wires so they come in reverse or did u use a switch ??? thanks
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Right now, they're tapped into the backup lights, which activate a relay. I have a fused 8 gauge wire run from one of the batteries all the way to the rear to provide the power.

I've read that using a switch is illegal, but I have one in the dash set up, I just need to wire it into the circuit. I figured it might be handy to have independent control for loading and what-not, and as long as I don't go around using it to people I figure there's no reason anyone ever really would know it's there.

 

What Commatoze said. Solder, seal, and wrap everything. Backend of vehicle gets all the crap and it stays there. Something hanging down is going to get double-the-garbage flung at it.

Switch is not illegal if you keep your stock backup lights functional, and if you aren't caught using it while in forward motion on a road. (Warning: tailgaters make it tempting.)

 

55w tractor lights in flood. These work great. You have to have them on separate switch in case the person behind you has their brights on or is tailgating.

 

[quote author=Mexstan link=board=7;threadid=20360;start=0#msg191068 date=1064953578]
I bought the White Knight kit but hated the way they looked on my truck. So threw away the plastic case and just kept the lights, wire, switch etc. Repositioned the trailer plug next to the receiver, made holes in the bumper and mounted the lights next to the licence plate. They look like it could have come from the factory and work great. I installed the switch between the tailgate and the bumper. it is invisable but I can still reach it easily. Only problem so far is that occasionally when washing the truck it is easy to bump the switch to another position. First time this happened left me wondering why my lights had suddenly failed.
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Have any pics of this setup?