Hi everyone,
After I got my truck all straightened out the first time, I decided to do a little tweaking. I first turned the starwheel all the way up and noticed a difference at all rpm ranges. Since my waste gate actuator was busted and leaking boost I had clamped off the tube. At that point I was able to hit about 28lbs of boost at about 2600-2700 rpm. I just recently installed a #11 plate and a 3000gsk. I noticed a big difference. But I thought that a #11 plate would make a bigger difference than what I had gained. It doesn't feel like my clutch is even close to it limits(just what im thinking). Now as I watch my boost guage it still gains boost like before the mods, quick jump to 10#'s then steady to peak, but now only hits 29#'s of boost (keep in mind I still have the waste gate tube clamped off) at 3000rpm, then its time to shift. I thought I was supposed to jump to peak boost, instead of a steady gain to a peak.
I did notice one thing however, when I removed the AFC housing I notice the stock plate was cocked ever so slightly, maybe 5*. I thought it was odd, but the injection pump had never been messed with so I figured it must be normal. So I just installed the new plate the same.
Any help would be appreciated !!!
Thanks

 

The plate should be straight not cocked. I have the #10 plate and 300injectors and cah hit 40psi of boost. maybe you should try biggere injectors. <br>Just my 2cents<br>DM01

 

The plate does need to be straight. A set of bigger injectors will help a lot. More fuel means more boost. Just keep an eye on your egt's.

 

The original plate on my truck was cocked also. I drove it, complaining, for 120,000 miles. The dealer, although good couldn't help much, although they did retime for me.<br><br>Now, with a few mods, i have a different truck.<br>Anyone suffering low power on a stock truck should check the plate, IMHO

 

Check it and replace it with a better one. ;D

 

Do you think the slightly cocked plate could be the cause of this whole problem??? I went back to www.dodgeram.org after a long time and read up on the #12 plate Dave Fritz installed and he says with a #12 he is runing 30lbs of boost from 1700 to 2400 rpm, when I can barely hit 29lbs at 3000rpm w/#11 plate and blocked waste gate. ???
Thanks

 

Can't say for sure, BigBlock, but just think of how far off a little angle makes on where the rod hits the stop. Sur is worth a try!

 

Ok,<br> I went ahead and squared away my plate today and NOTHING!!!! I also went ahead and checked for boost leaks and tightened up all the connections. I believe I also have the infamous &quot;ticking&quot;. I was able to use a stethascope and I could hear a kind of slapping of metal coming from the OVERFLOW valve. How would I go about checking the fuel pressure on my '98 215HP engine? I went to cummins and the service manager told me that there was no banjo bolt fitting that allowed me to adapt a fuel pressure guage to my fuel inlet line. He told me that they make all their own with accu-check valves. I am starting to narrow this down to a fuel delivery problem of somesort.<br>Also if I were to slide my plate &quot;FORWARD&quot; would that be towards the front of the engine or towards the rear.<br><br>Thoughts? or suggestions?<br><br>Thanks,<br> Chris

 

Slide the plate all the way to the front of the engine. I can't remember if you said you had the engine timmed but if not get it set to 16. that should give you a little more kick.<br>DM01

 

BigBlock<br>To check the overflow valve, just unscrew it and check the length...I think it is supposed to be about 500 thou.<br>If the spring is too short, you will get the symptoms your describe.<br>My spring came out in four pieces. Making the change was almost the same as changing the injectors at high end.<br><br>When you take the valve off, make sure to stuff a rag on the top of the pump to catch any stray washers, etc.<br>george